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So, I've been doing it right all along! I have one Deltran Battery Tender that I share between 2 bikes and a lawn tractor. I rotate between the three batteries once every few weeks during the winter "storage" season. I'll hook each one up for a full day until the full charge light comes on and then switch to the next then they'll all sit idle for two weeks or so and I'll do it again.
The NUMBER 1 cause of premature lead acid battery failure is in how you prepped and charged the battery BEFORE it was was ever installed in your vehicle. Any other comment is anecdotal. If you just bought a battery off the shelf, tossed it on the bike and started it up, then you've most likely destroyed its longevity. The most important thing you can do is to properly bring a brand new battery up to full charge before you ever pull current from it.
Most people believe that an off-the-shelf battery is bought ready to go, this is the furthest thing from the truth. You must slowly bring the new battery up to full charge with a charger rated at no more than 10 percent of the battery's rated current, ie; a 10 amp battery should be charged at no more than 1 amp, a 30 amp battery at 3 amps, etc. This should be done over a period of 10 hours or more before you ever install it. An off the shelf battery has a holding charge that will be strong enough to start your bike, but in doing so will irreversibly damage the battery's plates and chemical structure. This is guaranteed to shorten the battery's lifespan, and is in fact what most people do. Unless you know how the battery was conditioned before putting it into service, all the suppositions on trickle or float charging mean absolutely nothing.
A properly prepared battery will easily give you 5-7 years life out of it.
This is fact. Yuasa has been saying it in their small battery handbooks for decades. Run it "off the shelf" and it will never hold more than an 80% charge & it's irreversible.
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So, I've been doing it right all along! I have one Deltran Battery Tender that I share between 2 bikes and a lawn tractor. I rotate between the three batteries once every few weeks during the winter "storage" season. I'll hook each one up for a full day until the full charge light comes on and then switch to the next then they'll all sit idle for two weeks or so and I'll do it again.
Deltran - Battery Tender site has good information if you can take a few minutes to read it. A battery Tender hooked to a good battery will not hurt it if left on all winter. If you don't understand or question what you read, call them. I read the OP yesterday and went to the site below, read the description then called Deltran at (877) 456-7901 and confirmed the 72 hr. cut off was just for a battery that would not charge and continued to charge at the 5 amp rate for 3 days. A good battery will drop down to the Float Maintenance charge. Very good write up under the battery charging basics in the link below.
So, a bottle activated AGM or conventional lead acid battery only comes to about an 80% charge level when you pour the electrolyte into the battery and putting that battery into service without fully charging will cause the battery to "see" 80% as a full charge. Does this apply to factory activated batteries also or are they brought to full charge state at the factory? I could not determine this from an admittedly cursory read of the Yuasa handbook.
I work at a nuclear plant and we have some seriously heavy duty batteries for emergency situations. Batteries get load tested about once a year and then recharged back to full charge. After that, they are maintained continuously with a float charger/tender. These batteries normally last at least 20 years.
I use battery tenders on all my motorcycles, ATV's and lawnmowers and see no reason to stop.
So, a bottle activated AGM or conventional lead acid battery only comes to about an 80% charge level when you pour the electrolyte into the battery and putting that battery into service without fully charging will cause the battery to "see" 80% as a full charge. Does this apply to factory activated batteries also or are they brought to full charge state at the factory? I could not determine this from an admittedly cursory read of the Yuasa handbook.
An emphatic 'YES,' you must also slow charge factory activated batteries! There is a great misconception that factory activated batteries come ready to use. They come with the electrolyte solution already activated but by no means have they taken the hours required to properly bring it up to full charge, that is the job of either the battery house where you bought it from, or you, the end user. If you were lucky enough to buy it from a battery house that sells and services batteries, then hopefully the tech had brought the battery up a day before on a slow charge before handing it to you. If you bought it online or from your local off the shelf dealer then good chances are that nobody did anything other than hand you the cardboard box containing the battery. I always slow charge my batteries for 12 hours before putting them into service regardless of where I purchased them from. In doing that, I've never had a battery failure prior to 5 years of service life.
A battery left to float charge on a tender cannot be destroyed by that float charger as long as it cannot deliver more than 10 percent of the battery's rated current capacity. It is always a good idea to leave it on a tender when not in use, this will greatly extend its service life.
Last edited by Ride my Seesaw; May 6, 2016 at 10:43 AM.
[QUOTE=ROCKOUT Rocker Products;15117520]This is fact. Yuasa has been saying it in their small battery handbooks for decades. Run it "off the shelf" and it will never hold more than an 80% charge & it's irreversible.
This is fact. Yuasa has been saying it in their small battery handbooks for decades. Run it "off the shelf" and it will never hold more than an 80% charge & it's irreversible.
100 percent true.
Probably a good idea, even if you are told the battery house brought the battery up properly. However, I've never had the luxury of discovering a battery needed changed while my bike/car was safely in my garage, and I had 24 hours to properly bring up the replacement battery.
So, I guess I live with possibly only 80% capacity, and always have my mc battery on a tender.
Oh yeah...then why if it makes sense to put a mc battery on a tender, why not also a car battery when the car isn't being run for a while? Because the parasitic draw of a car over time, is a lower percentage of the total battery capacity than that of a motorcycle and its battery.
I have two vehicles and only driver in the house.................Which ever vehicle isnt being driven, the other is on a tender. My bike and mower stay on a tender when not in use. I firmly believe a good quality tender can be used without ill effects, least that has been my experience the last ten years or so.
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