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Old Jul 23, 2016 | 07:58 PM
  #11  
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I have the HF bleeder pump and it has worked well on several jobs. I think the 1/4 turn suggestion is the answer.

Two projects with it was to convert an 03 Sportster and a 2000 Deuce from DOT 5 to Dot 4. Sucked out both front and rear reservoirs then bled out the lines and caliper. Filled with 4 and pulled it through immediately. Then repeated two more times to insure complete flushing.

Worked perfectly. Now I only need to stock DOT 4 and never have to check which one is needed.

DOT 5 is better at high temps but not needed unless you are racing. Touring and cruising just does not reach the temps that need DOT5.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2016 | 09:21 PM
  #12  
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only making a 1/4" turn when bleeding caliper.
pumping ***** pump up to 20 then, opening bleeder.
do not think there is a o ring on the bleeder.
it might have loctite that has worn out.
thanks again for thr comments.
i guess if nothing else, front lines have been flushed.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2016 | 10:50 PM
  #13  
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I tend to agree with you ar sucking air at the threads.if it gets too frustrating Try a set of speed bleaders, Autozone has 'em for around 10 bucks a pair.
You can also try bleading at the banjo bolt first, then go to the bleader.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 09:54 AM
  #14  
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Replace the bleeder, new threads going into the hole will help too
 
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 01:24 AM
  #15  
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got some Speed Bleeders. did come with thread lock. will let you now how things go.



Stoney
 
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 05:33 PM
  #16  
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well, air seems not to be the problem. put new bleeders in, new bleeders did stop the massive air flow. harbor freight ***** pump kinda does suck, pump **** tends to *** out if squeezed in to much. was able to put rod back in to pump. got what i paid for!


front breaks do work, they have to be pulled in to just about all the way for them work good. if i pump up the front breaks, they will work better. once i let go, break lever goes back to being limp, has to be pumped back up. thought this was air, seems i am wrong.


stoney
 

Last edited by stoneybagger; Jul 25, 2016 at 05:49 PM.
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 05:37 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by stoneybagger
well, air seems not to be the problem. put new bleeders in, new bleeders did stop the massive air flow. harbor freight ***** pump kinda does suck, pump **** tends to *** out if squeezed to much. got what i paid for!

https://youtu.be/KaDkr6N0odQ

front breaks do work, they have to be pulled in to just about all the way for them work good. if i pump up the front breaks, they will work better. once i let go, break lever goes back to being limp, has to be pumped back up. thought this was air, seems i am wrong.


stoney
Keep bleeding them, the limp brake and then gets strong when you pump is a classic sign of air in the system.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 06:38 PM
  #18  
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This worked great for me. Pushed the air up and out through the master cylinder instead of trying to push air bubbles (that want to float) down.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/One-Man-Reve...718250&vxp=mtr
 
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 08:23 PM
  #19  
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I've used an old school oil hand pump that I bought from O Reilly's for like ten bucks to reverse bleed a clutch before. Sounds like you need to bleed the master cylinder in which the reverse method would work.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2016 | 02:04 PM
  #20  
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2 quarts, still not working right. 60 + dollars for tools etc.
stoney
 
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