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Handlebar Comparison

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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 08:05 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Buelligan666
If you pull the radio out, you don't have to take the inner fairing off.
When I took the outer fairing off, the inner fairing lifted up and rotated around like in the picture. No need to remove my amp from the top of the radio and remove the 4 bolts that are hard to get to just to remove the radio. Lift up on the inner fairing and rotate it around out of the way. That allowed me the ability to install, adjust, and remove the bars as I tried them.

Originally Posted by Keithhu
Um... why?

Comfort and cable length are not related. If you truly want to ride for hours, to me the way to do that is to find the right bars, not to make keeping those hideous stock garden hoses.
I wasn't trying to say that if I didn't need to change the clutch cable and brake line I wouldn't, but it was a must for me that I didn't have bars above the fairing. Any 10" bars can reuse the stock cable and lines.

Originally Posted by Hate Work
I have done both. For me, it is easier to loosen the inner fairing than remove the radio as I have an amp mounted on top. Others have a cb unit. To each their own.
To me, removing the radio would have made the job a little harder and longer. The inner fairing lifts up about 1" and then will rotate around out of the way. I don't see any need in removing the radio to remove/install handlebars. I also didn't want to remove my amp mounted to the top of the radio.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 08:05 AM
  #12  
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great write up. was looking at changing mine out for some chubbies. not sure i want to take it on though, i'd probably mess it up.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 08:08 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by cass
great write up. was looking at changing mine out for some chubbies. not sure i want to take it on though, i'd probably mess it up.
I thought the same thing until I got started. After I got the removal going, the only concern I had was pulling the wires through the bars without damaging a wire, or even getting them through the bars. I will get frustrated if I can't get something done in the first couple of attempts. With the wiring, I let them sit for a day after getting pissed while I went after the new TBW sensor from HD. I had the wires pulled through in about 25 minutes the second day.

All in all, I've got about 3-4 hours in the swap. I'm not exactly sure why the dealers charge 8-10 hours labor to do a bar swap that doesn't include the clutch cable or brake line.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 08:37 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by mjonesjr84
I'm not exactly sure why the dealers charge 8-10 hours labor to do a bar swap that doesn't include the clutch cable or brake line.
Because they can ??
 
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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 01:57 PM
  #15  
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great pics I wish I would have seen this before I did mine I went with wo 575s and wish I would have done 578s I hate to change em again
 
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Old Jul 24, 2016 | 10:45 PM
  #16  
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Great write up and pics, well done. The bars all laying on the driveway really shows the difference in wrist angles compared to stock.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 06:42 AM
  #17  
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Tag so I can find this again in the future
 
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 06:49 AM
  #18  
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Great write up.
Enjoyed all the details in the pictures.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2016 | 06:53 PM
  #19  
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Thanks for taking the time to document the differences in the bars......looks like I have my first winter project.
 
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 08:33 PM
  #20  
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mjones......Thanks so much.... You saved me hours of frustration. The pictures are fantastic and the bike looks that way too.
 
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