I removed the plug that goes from the stator to the regulator and tested the two leads with my multimeter on AC setting, bike revved up to about 2500-3000 rpm and got a reading of 16V. It's a 32V system which would indicate I need a stator.

The reason I'm putting this out here is I talked to the local Harley dealer and they said the stator plug should have 3 contact points not 2 so I'm confused and want to make sure I'm testing from the correct leads.

Any help is much appreciated.

 

A single phase stator has two leads, a three phase has three. I think they went to 3 phase around 2005. Check each lead to ground and you should not have continuity then check the resistance between the leads.
The Stator - Alternator puts out AC so make sure your meter is set correctly.


Here's a guide for touring bikes:
Testing:

Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.
Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.
Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.


Battery testing:
First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.
If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.
Voltmeter test:
Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.
12.7 v = 100% charge
12.6 v = 75%
12.3 v = 50%
12.0 v = 25%
11.8 v = 0%
Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.
If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:
LHCM 0.5
RHCM 0.5
Speedometer/ IM 0.5
Regulator 1.0
ABS 1.0
BCM 1.0
ECM 1.0
Security Siren 20.0
Radio 0.5
Amplifier 0.5
CB Module 0.5

If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.
Charging System Testing:
Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.
With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.

Stator testing
Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.
Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).
The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.
Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.
Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.
If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.

One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.

Voltage Regulator Testing

Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator.
If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.

 

Wow, what an amazing response! I'm going to bring my laptop to the garage tomorrow and see if I can figure this thing out. Question: how do I access the negative lead from the VR on a 2004 Road King Classic?

P.S. My bike must be 2 phase which is why Harley dealer was saying 3 leads (3 phase = newer)

Thanks Much!

 

Here's a good sight to save:

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.....asp?make=hdmc

Now look at this:

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....GE%20REGULATOR

I do have the Electrical Diagnostic Manual for 04 and it states the FLHR has a 38 amp alternator and should put out 16 - 20 V ac per 1000 rpm. To check the VR output just hook your volt meter to the battery and run the bike it should be between 13 and 15 V dc. Usually around 14.5 V.

I don't remember if the VR Grounds with the battery on the transmission right under the starter but if you're able to follow the wire you'll find it.

 

Thanks again for all your help.