I have done the following and Im still not sure if the regulator is good or not.
meter is on diode
neg lead to neg on battery side of regulator and get .451, .450 and .450
pos lead to neg on batter side of regulator and get 1.0, 1.0 and 1.0

pos lead to pos on battery side of regulator and get 1.0, 1.0 and 1.0
neg lead to pos on battery side of regulator and get 1.0, 1.0 and 1.0
Battery is not charging so it has to be either the stator or the regulator and I would prefer to change the regulator at this point in the New York riding season.
Any thoughts on this from an electrician would be welcome. I have no problem with wrenching but the electrical is nonsensical to me.
Thanks!

 

In the electrical section there is a charging system troubleshooting guide that will tell you what's wrong. Do all the checks, stator, regulator, battery and wiring before you start throwing parts at it.

 

You cannot check regulator without fancy equipment. Put DC meter on battery with good new tight connections and charged. Draw off charger volts by flipping key on. Note voltage 12.6 or so. Now start it and rev to 2k. Should be 14.5.

If not, you have a problem.
Then you need to check 3 wires on stator for AC and short to ground.
If you need help, post back.

 

Fscott4,
I wrote this up a while back to help someone else who had trouble with electrical problems. When you really get frustrated take a break and run over to Heid's for a Coney.
Bill

Testing:
Connectors and cables should be checked and cleaned first. Loose and corroded connectors, terminals and grounds can cause high resistance, impeding current flow. Check cables for broken or rubbed insulation and check continuity to make sure the conductor is not broken inside the insulation.

Coating connectors with dielectric grease will keep moisture out and reduce corrosion.

Use the schematics in the HD Electrical Diagnostic or Service manual to determine the location of additional connectors.





Battery testing:

First check and clean battery terminals, Battery cables and ground connections. To check cables, disconnect one end and Ohm out, wiggle while testing. Cables can and will corrode and the evidence can be concealed under the insulation.

If you are unsure of the battery’s condition charge it fully and take it to an auto parts store and have it load tested.

Voltmeter test:

Connect voltmeter positive to positive terminal on battery and voltmeter negative to battery negative terminal.

12.7 v = 100% charge

12.6 v = 75%

12.3 v = 50%

12.0 v = 25%

11.8 v = 0%

Watch the battery voltage when you start the bike, if a fully charged battery falls below 9.6 volts it’s time to replace it.

If a well charged battery runs down if the bike sits for a short time perform a current draw test. Set your meter to read 10 amps current. Pull your main fuse and insert the meter leads. Here’s a list of components and what current they will draw in milli amps, 1/1000 of an amp) from the 2015 manual:

LHCM 0.5

RHCM 0.5

Speedometer/ IM 0.5

Regulator 1.0

ABS 1.0

BCM 1.0

ECM 1.0

Security Siren 20.0

Radio 0.5

Amplifier 0.5

CB Module 0.5



If the Battery passes all tests check the charging system.

Charging System Testing:

Volt meter set to DCV 20V scale or higher.

With the bike in neutral and voltmeter attached to the battery, start the engine and rev to 3,000 rpm. If the voltage measures 13V – 14.7V the charging system is operating properly. If less than 13V test the Stator first. If Greater than 15.5V test the Voltage Regulator.



Stator testing

Turn the bike off and disconnect the Stator from the Voltage Regulator.

Testing a 3 phase Stator, (A single phase stator is tested in the same manner but the plug will only have 2 sockets).

The end of the connector from the stator has 3 sockets. Set your meter to ohms and connect one lead to the battery negative. With the other lead make contact with the conductors inside each socket. You are checking for a grounded coil winding, each socket should show an open circuit to ground, no continuity.

Now take both meter leads and check resistance between each of the three sockets, 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The resistance should be 0.1 – 0.3 ohm.

Next check the Stator’s AC output. Set the meter to ACV 100V scale. With the Stator unplugged from the VR and the bike in neutral, start the bike. Run the bike at 2,000 rpm and check the Stator output between sockets 1-2, 2-3 and 1-3. The voltage should read approximately 32-46 Volts AC, for the 50 amp Stator. Stators with other Amp ratings will be similar.

If the Stator continuity tests to ground and Phase to Phase are good but the output is not the Rotor may be bad.



One other indication that the stator may be bad is if your primary oil smells like a burnt circuit board.



Voltage Regulator Testing



Voltage readings of 15.5V and higher test wire from VR negative to battery negative, if less than 0.5 ohm replace Voltage Regulator.

If the output is less than 13V from the Voltage Regulator to the battery and the Stator output is good, disconnect the output cable from the VR to the Battery. Check continuity between the Voltage Regulator Positive wire and the battery Positive and the negative wire and battery negative. Repair or replace cable if needed. If the cables are good and the Stator tested well replace the Voltage Regulator.

 

I do love a Heids mixed double!
It looks like its the VR. I will take a break for a while and come back to it with your post and recheck again before I order one.
Thanks for your help.
Fred

 

Good info.

 

Well the stator is burned up and I have a cracked magnet. Can the magnets be replaced or should the "hub" be replaced? I upgraded the compensator to the screamin eagle style but I cant find the paperwork so I'm not sure how to be sure to get the correct part.
Thanks
Fred