Iwould like to improve the MPG's onmy scootif I can wihtout here getting too hot. I have a 2005 Ultra, SE II's slip-ons, SE AC and a remap from the Dealer. She ran too freaking hot but I was getting 41 MPG then. Ordered the PC III with MAP preloaded from Jamie. Bike runs cooler, better, but now I'mmaybe 34-35 MPG. I'm easy on the bike, ride mainly to-and-from work in 4th gear 2000-3000RPM.s ON the highway I will go 80 ish, but that's not in my daily commute. I'd like to tweak the map to try and get better MPG but not increase the heat too much and here's where I'm looking for some guidance. I've included the numbers from my map and I'm assuming I should lower the numbers in the 2000 - 3000 RPM range, probably the Throttle % at 2, 5 and maybe 10?

Am I on the right track here? Can someone that knows more about this than me give me a
starting point to start tweaking this? I'm thinking of starting here, but I have no idea if this is where I should start

Before After
2 5 2 5
2000 14 16 11 13
2250 0 19 0 14
2500 0 16 0 13
2750 0 3 0 3
3000 0 9 07

Here's the existing MAP.


0 2 5 10 20 40 60 80 100

500 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
750 6 1 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
1000 6 7 7 10 0 0 0 0 0
1250 6 12 12 16 -7 -7 0 0 0
1500 6 13 19 19 6 -12 -2 2 5
1750 6 18 17 17 5 -5 -4 -5 -7
2000 6 14 16 19 11 -11 -10 -9 -4
2250 0 0 19 13 12 -6 -6 -3 -3
2500 0 0&

 

If you bought your pc3 from jamie, give him a call and ask him what values to change, he helped me when I wanted to tweak my map some.

 

I saved this post about fuel mileage, maybe it will help you.....
https://www.hdforums.com/m_1536754/tm.htm

 

Thanks for that post. I played around a bit tonight, hoping you folks can shed a little light.

I let the bike warm up, plugged in the PCIII via USB. First thing I noticed is that my Throttle at 0 (to the right of the screen) was running between 6 - 7% Note: I haven't changed anything from the
maps I received from FuelMoto and Jamie as of yet. I've read that the first thing I should do is make sure this is 0% at 0 TP. So I set this to 0 before I did anything else.
I'm making an assumption here that if my TP at 0% was running at 6-7% than that will scew what Jamie's map was supposed to do to my bike by making everything roughtly 6 - 7% richer than
the numbers in the boxes? Is my thinking correct here? At least this would sort of explain to me why I'm only getting around 35MPG when I was getting 41 prior to the PC III.

Net thing I did after setting the TP at 0 to 0 is:
I thing figured what the heck, and set my number the same as what iclick had his set when he was happy (the number he set in the post you included the link for).
Went for a quick spin and the bike ran like crap! flat spots in a couple of places, popping on decel also.

Next I set it back to the map that Jamie sent me (I included those numbers in this post earlier) but the TP is still at 0 now at 0 and not 6 to 7%.
Went for a quick spin, no flat spots at all, but she now "gurgles" a bit on decel, not quite popping. Do you folks think that just setting the one thing I changed wthout
touching any of the "cell" nubmers at varios RPM and TP's will make much of a difference? I guess what I'm asking is how badly will the 6 or7% at 0 TP impact MPG?

Thanks,
Joe

 

With the TP at 6-7% that just throws your MAP all out of whack. I didn't set my TP either when i put on my PCIII (no where in the destruction does it tell you to do this[:@])and thanks for the heads up from Taterdog he told me that It had to be done. My bike got so freaking hot after 30 miles before I set the TP that I swear it felt like my legs and A$$ were on fire. Luckily I had Amsoil in the motor or It could have been real bad. Ride it around for a few days now that you set the TP and see what it does. Then tweak it if needed.

 

Joe, just a thought, but if you didn't set the 100% throttle position, try doing that too. They say it's optional, but sure made a difference for my bike and Bryan's. Without setting both 0 and 100% I'm not sure how the PCIII really knows where your throttle position is while you're running. Give it a try and see how it does.

 

Also set 100% throttle from the same location. Just click on "Reset" while the engine is warmed-up and running, and watch that "100%" shows in the TP readout briefly. The value on the right should read around 24000, IIRC. I had to do it several times on my bike and a neighbor's before 100% TP registered correctly.

If you'll read my contributions to the earlier thread you'll see that getting in the upper-40's is possible after the engine is warmed up. The problem you'll run into is warm-up time, which kills mileage since the EFI is in cold mode, pumping in more gas to the mixture until normal operating temps are achieved. I'm getting around 40mpg with a combination of mostly city riding with numerous cold starts, but was worse this winter in colder air temps when mileage dipped to 36-38 in city riding. Of course, my bike was breaking in and that could explain some of the mileage improvement, as well as changing to synthetic oil.

Interesting, as mine is running great with no flats spots, cool as a cucumber (180-200° oil temps while moving), great performance for a stocker, and excellent mileage (once warmed up). At what points in the grid did you change? Mine were mostly in the 2k-3k @ 5-10% TP range, and here you shouldn't find any flat spots since once you roll-on to excelerate you are out of that range. Don't change 20% or above as with my bike it produced a flat spot, and those values on my bike may not be ideal on yours. I've never had any decel popping.

No way to tell without trying it, but I still think you could lean the "cruise range" considerably to help mileage. Watch that oil temp doesn't go too high if you do, as your setup is different from mine and I have an oil cooler. Running a high-quality synthetic oil (Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Redline, et al) will help with cooling.

I would try leanng the cruise range step-by-step. Start by cutting the values in half in the range mentioned above, then if you don't see any performance problems cut it again, until you get to "0", at which point I would stop. Jamie at Fuel Moto told me that "0" in that range is around 14.0-14.2:1 A/F, which to me is about right for optimum mileage.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I downloaded the entire manual today and there's a nice tutorial on the website on resetting the
throttle. It's exactly as you describe, although the manul says you can do the 100% with a 9v and the ignition on??? Would I see the numbers you are talking about with the Battery method or should I actually rev it briefly to 100 TP?

I changed all of my numbers for 5 10 and I believe 20, I know I didn't touch the 30. But as I said, I put it back to what Jamie gave me. The flat spot was brief, almost like a cylinder wasn't fireing than it grabed and pulled pretty hard. My starting numbers I think were higher than yours were from Jamie though???

On theheat side, this is the reasonI got the PCIII in the first place. Brief story:this is my first HD, been riding cruiser for years though last scoot was a Yamaha air cooled 1600cc silverado. The 05 Ultra ran so hot I thought therewas something wrong. Dealer said, nope, all is fine. I checked the temp with a candy thermometer once warmed up properly and the oil was cooking at 270+. I put in HD syn at my 5K with the Stage 1 (AC and SEII slip ons with the HDmap). No change in temp.I thengot the PCIII last year, Mobil 1 VTwin in two holes and Redline Heavy Shock in thetranny. Not sure what the temp is now, but it feels much cooler to ride than before.

Tonight, my plans will be to check the 100% and reset 0 and 100 if required. Then I'll cut the
5 and 10% TP's in half between 1750 and 3000 RPM and see what that does.

Thanks,
Joe

 

That's a new one on me, but it would be better doing it with the 9V battery since you wouldn't have to blip the throttle so quickly. That might be why it took several tries to get it right before.

Like I said in the earlier thread, don't lean out the 20 TP values! It will cause flat spots like you describe. Alter only 5 and 10%, and 0% if it helps your decel popping. Mine has never had a problem with that, even with all 0% values set to "0". Frankly, I don't understand the popping, as when at 0% I believe the ignition is not firing until you get near idle speed.

Oil temps above 220° are too high, IMO, despite HD's position that 230° is the normal operating temp for an '07. With the right settings and using the right oil you should see no higher than 230°, even in traffic. Mine peaks at around 210° nowadays in traffic, but I expect it to peak higher as summer temps creep up on us. If it goes beyond 220° in stop-and-go traffic I may add a second oil cooler. I don't like high oil temps and am not accustomed to seeing them, as my Evo almost never exceeded 180° and my turbocharged car maxes at 220°.

I still think you can go down to "2" for 5% and "4" for 10% in the cruise range like I did, and as long as you don't mess with 20% you should be free of flat spots. This will get your mileage up in that range. These bikes warm up very slowly and cool down very quickly, which doesn't help mileage. I know of no way to modify this problem, although I understand you can change the A/F in warm-up mode with SERT.

Again, mine works like this and yours should too, but like people all bikes are different. Let us know how your experiments go.

 

I will fill you in as I tweak it, I appreciate all your help.

If you want to look at the tutorial, they are on the fuelmotousa website, under FAQ 1/2 way down the page there's one for resetting the open and closed TP.

Joe