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2000 ultra. Help with upgrades.

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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 08:56 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by goldie
Hi all,
I have a 99 RKC with EFI . I had rebuild motor at 80,000 miles, it had S&S 510 gear drive cams that had been installed at 20,000. Went with SE 95 kit, newer stock heads with .30 gaskets, Power Commander III USB. Dinoed out at 90 hp, 106 lbs of torque and gets around semi's without any issue. While my bike does have some issues the EFI isn't one of them. The old system has trouble if you go great big bore getting enough fuel to power it but a 95 or 98 inch motor IMHO
The 99 RKC has the first year TC, correct?
 
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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 09:19 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Bartender
The 99 RKC has the first year TC, correct?
Correct
 
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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 09:19 PM
  #13  
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Indeed it was, it had cam bearing issues which I solved by upgrading to the S&S gear drive cams....goldie
 
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Old Dec 28, 2016 | 09:50 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by goldie
Indeed it was, it had cam bearing issues which I solved by upgrading to the S&S gear drive cams....goldie
Does the 2000 have those same cam bearing issues?
Also,
I see you run the power commander 3. Is the pc V a upgraded version of the 3?
 

Last edited by Bartender; Dec 28, 2016 at 09:54 PM.
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 03:45 AM
  #15  
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I bought my '00 FLHTCUI new and kept it until 2013.
I put 77,000 miles on it.

I would strongly recommend the "95" kit.
Great improvement in torque.

I had the cam chain adjusters replaces when I had the engine updated at 39,000 miles and the S/E Hyd Cam chain kit installed a 76,000 miles.

At the time (late fall) I inquired about having the stator replaced while the bike was in the shop for the engine upgrade (at 39,000 miles) they told me that a stator was either good or bad and it didn't make sense to replace something that wasn't bad. Before I had put a 1,000 miles on this bike early in the following riding season, the stator died and I lost a week of premium riding time.

My MM EFI became an issue and I had an aftermarket ECM installed and it ran better but it never started as quickly as id did with the OEM module.

I also had a 6spd. tranny installed just so I could run with my wife's Softail but I wouldn't recommend that unless you do a lot of freeway riding at speeds over 75MPH.

BTW, my stator went out at just a tad over 39,000 miles.
 

Last edited by 2AMGuy; Feb 1, 2017 at 06:31 PM.
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 07:47 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Bartender
Thanks Toby,
It would be nice not to have to change out the efi.
How did you dial in the efi to the changes you made?
I disconnected the idle valve. It seemed that no matter how I set my idle, over a two week period it would always drop my idle down. I could disconnect the battery & it would go back up for about two weeks & then start dropping again. It finally went out & started raising my idle, so I disconnected it & wished I had done it sooner. Now where I set it it stays. It how ever does not raise the idle when it's cold, but I can live with that. Other than that I have had no problems with the EFI.

Toby
 
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 08:34 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Bartender
I started researching my bike before I started this thread and saw that about the left bearing, crazy.


Looking into that as well. Should be some good threads here on efi to carb.
Any recommendations on which one?

I grew up on a panhead and went to a evo in the 80's.
I put a SE ignition module, crane cam, makuni carb and python pipes on that and was very happy with the results.
Got my TC in 2000 and because of the efi I stopped working on my bike because it was soo foreign to me. (Senior citizen man). Now that I know I need to do something I'm trying to learn all I can before digging into my bike.




Good information Frank!
This might be the direction I go.



Thanks,
I will definitely be giving them a call before I make my final decision on what to do.



Thanks Toby,
It would be nice not to have to change out the efi.
How did you dial in the efi to the changes you made?
If you're not having any problems with the Fuel Injection, then you don't have to change it out.

I put 50K plus miles on my FI 2000 RHC with no issues, and so have many others. Just add a PC3 or similar product to tune it (Fuel Moto).

My 2000 was stage 2 with SE 203 cams. The cam swap was done early in its life, as there were some problems with inner cam bearings, and the dealer did the cam swap with the bearing recall for basically the cost of the cam.

Definitely do the cam swap while you're in there, and change the inner cam bearings to full complement type. I would also swap the lifters, as they can be a problem. They are a wear item and can cause a lot of damage when they go. Use any good aftermarket lifters (S&S or others) as the current HD lifters are made in Mexico and prone to problems and failure.
 
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Old Dec 29, 2016 | 04:52 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 2AMGuy
I bought my '00 FLHTCUI new and kept it until 2013.
I put 77,000 miles on it.

I would strongly recommend the "95" kit.
Great improvement in torque.
Would it make sense to buy take offs from newer models to do the 95" upgrade and if so what years could I swap parts from ?
Also, would I be able to use my stock heads or would it make more sense to use the newer heads from the 95"?

Originally Posted by nhrider1
If you're not having any problems with the Fuel Injection, then you don't have to change it out.

I put 50K plus miles on my FI 2000 RHC with no issues, and so have many others. Just add a PC3 or similar product to tune it (Fuel Moto).

My 2000 was stage 2 with SE 203 cams. The cam swap was done early in its life, as there were some problems with inner cam bearings, and the dealer did the cam swap with the bearing recall for basically the cost of the cam.

Definitely do the cam swap while you're in there, and change the inner cam bearings to full complement type. I would also swap the lifters, as they can be a problem. They are a wear item and can cause a lot of damage when they go. Use any good aftermarket lifters (S&S or others) as the current HD lifters are made in Mexico and prone to problems and failure.
I think I'm going to try to stick with my EFI for now and see if it works with the changes I make.

Wonder if my bike was part of the recall?

S&S lifters, thanks!!
 
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 10:39 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Bartender
Would it make sense to buy take offs from newer models to do the 95" upgrade and if so what years could I swap parts from ?
Also, would I be able to use my stock heads or would it make more sense to use the newer heads from the 95"?



I think I'm going to try to stick with my EFI for now and see if it works with the changes I make.

Wonder if my bike was part of the recall?

S&S lifters, thanks!!

It's been a while, so I went back and checked. It was actually the rear outer cam bearing that they were having trouble with.

Service Bulletin M1097 stated that :99's and early 2000's had rear outer ball bearings that were prone to failure. They swapped the outer rear ball bearing (in the cam support plate) with a roller bearing to fix the problem. The front remained a ball bearing and had no issues. This 'change' applied to all 99's and early 2000 TC's. The change was effective 12/14/2000, so if your 'Engine Build Date' is after that date you're OK. It's easy to check if you have the cam plate out. Just look to be sure the outer rear is a roller bearing. If it's a ball bearing swap it out.

They sent a letter extending the warranty to 5yrs or 50,000miles for this bearing failure.

Always swap the inner cam bearings to full compliment bearings when doing a cam swap.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2016 | 05:01 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by nhrider1
It's been a while, so I went back and checked. It was actually the rear outer cam bearing that they were having trouble with.

Service Bulletin M1097 stated that :99's and early 2000's had rear outer ball bearings that were prone to failure. They swapped the outer rear ball bearing (in the cam support plate) with a roller bearing to fix the problem. The front remained a ball bearing and had no issues. This 'change' applied to all 99's and early 2000 TC's. The change was effective 12/14/2000, so if your 'Engine Build Date' is after that date you're OK. It's easy to check if you have the cam plate out. Just look to be sure the outer rear is a roller bearing. If it's a ball bearing swap it out.

They sent a letter extending the warranty to 5yrs or 50,000miles for this bearing failure.

Always swap the inner cam bearings to full compliment bearings when doing a cam swap.
Thanks,
Never got that letter so hopefully that's not one of my problems.
Guess it would not hurt to replace the cam plate bearings while I'm in there as well but I haven't seen anything stating that you need to. Wonder why?
 
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