Need brake help
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,335
Likes: 328
From: Arizona
Need brake help
On my new to me 2004 RK non-ABS bike, the brake lever closes almost all the way to the grip. I bought DOT 5 and flushed and bled dual front brakes. Same low lever. No leaks. Pads have material left. What shall I try next? Right now I am leaving it overnight with lever tied up to see if any air is hiding. Help please.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,530
Likes: 546
From: Wayne County, PA
Don't quote me but wasn't is 03 or 04 that the front master cylinder had more lever travel than years prior. I remember reading about it in American iron or something. Google it.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 388
Likes: 36
From: USA
The thing that helps for a while is to clean the pistons . There are threads here that go into detail like post #9 in https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...ctraglide.html.
Its not to hard and it does work for 5,000 miles or so. Hard part for me has been getting other pistons to come out far enough once 1 or 2 are clean. Paint sticks and screw drivers to pry a pad seem to work. I have used twine or 1/8" nylon rope to get all around a piston. I may have used rubbing alcohol too.
Its not to hard and it does work for 5,000 miles or so. Hard part for me has been getting other pistons to come out far enough once 1 or 2 are clean. Paint sticks and screw drivers to pry a pad seem to work. I have used twine or 1/8" nylon rope to get all around a piston. I may have used rubbing alcohol too.
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,350
Likes: 46
If the wheel bearings are loose, that can cause the tire to lean which pushes the piston in farther than it needs to be & thus uses more fluid to clamp down on the rotor. You can use the hydrolics of the bike or air to push the piston out, but it is messy.
Toby
Toby
HDF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 6,186
Likes: 2,412
From: USA
Sticking pistons will create excessive travel and a long lever pull. Air will also create long spongy lever pull.
I'd suggest pulling the calipers and cleaning the pistons. Not just passively, but with the pads out and the pistons extended. As well lubricate the pistons and press them fully back in order to somewhat lubricate the piston seals. Then reinstall.
As for bleeding the brakes, do it at the master cylinder banjo fitting. Air bubbles up here tend not to travel down to the caliper during normal bleeding. If there is air, you will likely hear it as a "snap-crackle-pop" sound.
I'd suggest pulling the calipers and cleaning the pistons. Not just passively, but with the pads out and the pistons extended. As well lubricate the pistons and press them fully back in order to somewhat lubricate the piston seals. Then reinstall.
As for bleeding the brakes, do it at the master cylinder banjo fitting. Air bubbles up here tend not to travel down to the caliper during normal bleeding. If there is air, you will likely hear it as a "snap-crackle-pop" sound.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Arizona
This weekend I plan to do the extend pistons and clean thoroughly. Clean with brake clean, lube with what? Thanks.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 6,186
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From: USA
Lube the pistons with brake grease. Doesn't take much. The objective is to let the pistons slide freely on the seals without sticking. If the pistons stick to the seal, the seal will pull them back, creating excessive lever motion taking up the slack.
When you clean the pistons, a length of string to wrap around the pistons will help greatly in getting the crud scrubbed off from those areas you can't reach with a toothbrush or the like.
When you clean the pistons, a length of string to wrap around the pistons will help greatly in getting the crud scrubbed off from those areas you can't reach with a toothbrush or the like.
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,102
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From: Niles Canyon Ca.
On some I've had the pull the calipers one at a time, pump the handle till the pucks meet then pry them open just enough to go back on rotors. Also tying the handle back doesn't work, puts the piston in the MC in the wrong position to trap air and let it bleed into the reservoir.
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