Compensator Replacement
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,459
Likes: 2,900
From: Oklahoma
The compensator was relatively unchanged for a long time and worked well through the 88 ci engines. The SE unit was developed for the guys who modified their engines and upped the horsepower and torque. That overloaded the standard comp. As luck would have it, the factory 96 ci was right at the limit for the standard compensator. Depending on how factory tolerances were stacked in a particular unit, it would work well for a long time or even the life of the machine or was inadequate right from the start. It worked using a coil spring and if that spring was not at the high end of the strength tolerance the regular starting and driving loads would slam the compensator to the limits of its movement and make a loud bang or "rattling" if repeatedly slammed to the limit. Finally in model year '11 the factory made the SE style compensator the standard unit. The original SE comps had a design flaw that did not allow adequate lubrication in the hub area and when worn in that area would also get noisy. The latest version provides for hub lubrication but there have been some failures even so. Anything made by man can fail, the current version is the best so far from Harley but some prefer the Baker unit for more money. I have over 60,000 miles on my "type 1" SE compensator and seem to be doing all right for now. If I must replace it in the future, I am confident that the Harley latest version will take my bike to the end of its life with me as it now has over 85,000 miles. I will see how it is doing at 100k and decide if it is time to trade or not at that time.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 4,459
Likes: 2,900
From: Oklahoma
The compensator was relatively unchanged for a long time and worked well through the 88 ci engines. The SE unit was developed for the guys who modified their engines and upped the horsepower and torque. That overloaded the standard comp. As luck would have it, the factory 96 ci was right at the limit for the standard compensator. Depending on how factory tolerances were stacked in a particular unit, it would work well for a long time or even the life of the machine or was inadequate right from the start. It worked using a coil spring and if that spring was not at the high end of the strength tolerance the regular starting and driving loads would slam the compensator to the limits of its movement and make a loud bang or "rattling" if repeatedly slammed to the limit. Finally in model year '11 the factory made the SE style compensator the standard unit. The original SE comps had a design flaw that did not allow adequate lubrication in the hub area and when worn in that area would also get noisy. The latest version provides for hub lubrication but there have been some failures even so. Anything made by man can fail, the current version is the best so far from Harley but some prefer the Baker unit for more money. I have over 70,000 miles on my "type 1" SE compensator and seem to be doing all right for now. If I must replace it in the future, I am confident that the Harley latest version will take my bike to the end of its life with me as it now has over 85,000 miles. I will see how it is doing at 100k and decide if it is time to trade or not at that time.
Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 651
Likes: 72
From: Harleysville, PA
So the best year for factory compensator is? Or just go with a Baker or Tension Reliever Manual Primary Chain Adjuster?
Appreciate it!
B Bop
2012 FLHR (Road King) Ember Red Sunglo & Merlo
Cruise Control, ABS, Chrome Aluminum Profile Laced Spoke Tubeless Wheels, Security Package, Saddle Bag LED Lid Spoilers, and an array of accessories that enhances nostalgic appearance & blood curdling performance.
Do not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Appreciate it!
B Bop
2012 FLHR (Road King) Ember Red Sunglo & Merlo
Cruise Control, ABS, Chrome Aluminum Profile Laced Spoke Tubeless Wheels, Security Package, Saddle Bag LED Lid Spoilers, and an array of accessories that enhances nostalgic appearance & blood curdling performance.
Do not argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level and beat you with experience.
Last edited by B Bop; Jan 24, 2017 at 11:23 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 102
From: Central Illinois
If you need to change the rotor, then you will need the primary to engine gasket, new primary attachment bolts and possibly the inner primary seal. I personally would not recommend the grinding out of the inner primary to remove the rotor, but that is me. Others see it differently. Would be a good time to change the inner primary bearing too, along with the seal. You can take the primary to your dealer, buy the seal and bearing and have them replace it. Makes things simple that way.
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Advanced
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 84
Likes: 3
From: Chicago
Sorry I have 2007 FLHTCU with 80,000 miles. I am using the new Harley Compensator. So it is either grind away or replace another gasket. How much more work is involved in removing the inner primary? Can you use a dremel to remove the extra material?
http://www.harley-davidson.com/store...18-40100061--1
http://www.harley-davidson.com/store...18-40100061--1
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Advanced
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 84
Likes: 3
From: Chicago
I am up for removing the inner primary and that is no problem. What I am wondering about is you say that the rotor is not compatible with the new compensator. Can you tell me what is different? Are you saying I need a whole new stator at that point also?
When I did my '07 a couple weeks ago my old rotor came out with only taking the outer primary cover off. It did hit a tight spot come came out and the '08 rotor went in the same.
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Road Captain
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 651
Likes: 72
From: Harleysville, PA
I'll take it with no replies that the 2012 factory compensator is sufficient.
Appreciate it!
B Bop
2012 FLHR (Road King) Ember Red Sunglo & Merlo
Cruise Control, ABS, Chrome Aluminum Profile Laced Spoke Tubeless Wheels, Security Package, Saddle Bag LED Lid Spoilers, and an array of accessories that enhances nostalgic appearance & blood curdling performance.
A politician is a fellow who will lay down your life for his country.
Appreciate it!
B Bop
2012 FLHR (Road King) Ember Red Sunglo & Merlo
Cruise Control, ABS, Chrome Aluminum Profile Laced Spoke Tubeless Wheels, Security Package, Saddle Bag LED Lid Spoilers, and an array of accessories that enhances nostalgic appearance & blood curdling performance.
A politician is a fellow who will lay down your life for his country.
Road Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 773
Likes: 124
From: Between purgatory and retirement
So if you are replacing the original comp you should be using HD part number 40100061 which comes with the rotor and new spring-pak.
(No, you don't need to replace stator)
If comp has already been replaced with an SE you shouldnt need new rotor, it would already have one.
I would not grind the inner primary (I should say I would not do it again)
Any time savings is lost trying to clean up those shavings.
Now you may have enough freeplay in your chain to get away with not removing the clutch.
But I would not risk tweaking the chain; take the clutch off with the comp!
There is a reason both HD and Baker say to remove them together.
Anyway, with those miles you should take the opportunity to check the inner primary bearing while it is apart.
Good Luck.
.
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