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Clutch Adjustment

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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 05:54 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by ORradtech
It should be noted that the above adjustments must be done on a stone cold engine.

Get an FSM for these instructions and much, much more.
Good point! Yes, engine should be stone cold for several obvious reasons.

Also, my instructions are a bit vague as I was trying to type it out in a hurry. If you're not familiar with adjusting your clutch and the clutch cable, watch some youtube videos on the subject. There's tons of them on this very subject.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 05:58 PM
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Does the 2017 Street Glide come with a Hydraulic clutch?
 
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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Vernal
Does the 2017 Street Glide come with a Hydraulic clutch?
Yepper
 
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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 07:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Vernal
Does the 2017 Street Glide come with a Hydraulic clutch?
Originally Posted by Cygnusx51
Yepper
Someone should tell Brandon Smith.........................

The best $50 you can spend on your bike is for a Service manual.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Vernal
Someone should tell Brandon Smith........

Originally Posted by BrandonSmith
I beg to ask the question, how DO you adjust the clutch? Mine engages way too late in my opinion.
Hey Brandon, you can't adjust your hydraulic clutch. However, check to see if you fall under the clutch recall. (Go to HD website, find the recall section and type in your VIN. Or call your dealer).
 
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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 10:15 PM
  #16  
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Zero recalls. Thanks for the info guys. I test road three other '17 FLHX's and the clutch felt different on each - some engaged almost instantly, while some were way out. Why is that? All had similar mileage.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 11:01 PM
  #17  
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I add one extra step after the 1/2 turn out, 3 clutch pulls I again turn in to see if it is still a 1/2 turn. 1st time I did this it was not. The ball/ramp did not fully return to '0' so the light touch was up the ramp 1st, after pulls it turned in more as it was now at bottom.
Many have complained of doing it by the book and I wondered if they experienced the same but did not know it was more than 1/2 turn when finished.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2017 | 05:16 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Canuck
I add one extra step after the 1/2 turn out, 3 clutch pulls I again turn in to see if it is still a 1/2 turn. 1st time I did this it was not. The ball/ramp did not fully return to '0' so the light touch was up the ramp 1st, after pulls it turned in more as it was now at bottom.
Many have complained of doing it by the book and I wondered if they experienced the same but did not know it was more than 1/2 turn when finished.
That 1/2 turn is really 1/2 to 1 full turn per the FSM and is pretty subjective. For example, mine feels and works best for me at right around 3/4 turn out.

Good heads up about double checking after seating the ball and ramp though
 
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Old Mar 30, 2017 | 05:41 AM
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Originally Posted by ORradtech
That 1/2 turn is really 1/2 to 1 full turn per the FSM and is pretty subjective. For example, mine feels and works best for me at right around 3/4 turn out.

Good heads up about double checking after seating the ball and ramp though
I agree that there is scope for interpretation on clutch adjustment. On my older Glide, for example I set the clutch centre adjustment as per the book, but take out most of the cable slack, which works better for me. These variations can obviously only come about with some experience and experimentation, but only try them if the normal adjustments don't work 'just so'.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2017 | 07:46 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by BrandonSmith
Zero recalls. Thanks for the info guys. I test road three other '17 FLHX's and the clutch felt different on each - some engaged almost instantly, while some were way out. Why is that? All had similar mileage.
Probably just the differences of the internals, from the master cyclinder, to the slave cylinder, to the clutch itself. Being mass produced parts, there's going to be tolerance differences between bikes. Add in the fact that the hydro clutches have to be bled, the hydro fluid can degrade depending on temps (it's just brake fluid), also the oil type, condition and level in the primary plays into it as well (clutch plates sticking together for example).

There's no easy answer here I guess. I have read that the fluid sometimes gets gummed up by the graphite lube they use inside the master cylinder and by flushing new fluid through the line, getting the old crap out, it sometimes helps with the clutch pull. Of course you're bleeding it as well, where the MOCO may not have done the best job, so there's that also.
 
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