I've been hesitant to ask, since there are several security fob threads around here, but I can't seem to find my exact problem. It's probably something common sense I just haven't learned yet.

My 2011 Road King Classic stopped recognizing my fob about a month ago. I went to the store and picked up some new batteries for the fob. After that did not work, I checked the forums and found that a lot of people seem to put the batteries in backwards, so I verified that they were in correctly, and still not working.

I checked the battery on the bike, and the battery was fine. Since I had somewhere to be, I put in the override code and started riding. During the ride, I had what I though was a eureka moment, and when I stopped I tried to reset the override code. This did work, and I was able to start the bike using the new code. Before I go any further, my first question is this: Should I have been able to reset the code if the security system was not reading my fob? Or do I get a pass because I had already deactivated it with the old code?

In an unrelated move, I had the battery go dead because the one night I forgot to lock the ignition switch, some kid came by and turned it to ignition and it stayed like that for a couple days. The dealership tested the battery and said it was a goner. Part of me was thinking that maybe it's possible that the battery was so-so before, even though I never had startup issues. It's seems unlikely since I had no other symptoms, but I am no expert there.

I put a new battery in the bike. When everything was reconnected, I noticed that the alarm did not go off. No flashing lights, no chirp, etc. This is the first alarm system I've worked with, so I did not know if that was because the fob was recognized, or chirp disabled, or something else, but it was something I had been expecting after reading other people's forum posts. The system was still armed, however, so I guess my fob issue was still present. The new security code I had put in a couple days ago worked, and I've been riding that way since (putting in code every time I go somewhere).

All of that being said, my next step will be to the dealership to re-sync? the fobs. Before I do that, I just wanted a sanity check - Am I missing something obvious?

 

out of date 'new' batteries in fob? worth buying a second new set from a different source and try.

 

I can check. I failed to mention a couple details though - both fobs stopped working on relatively the same day, and both fob batteries were replaced. I have one on my keychain (with car keys), and one on a backup set. I use both pretty regularly. It would be very bad luck to have both go bad at the same time, and both expired upon replacement, but I have seen a lot of bad luck! I think I might have bought them separately, but I can't remember. If they were from the same store, it would make sense that if one is dead, the other is dead as well. I'll test the batteries during lunch and reply back.

 

The spring-metal contact tabs that reach out from the battery holder to the circuit board are most likely bent the wrong way. I saw this exact same problem on another member's key fobs after he replaced both his batteries too. The metal tangs from the battery ring should be bent outwards to connect to the printed circuit board below. I bet this is your situation.

 

Thanks - when I check the batteries, I'll check this too.

 

So, as I'd expect, it seems you guys are pointing to the fob, which makes perfect sense to me. Does that mean my first question: "How did I change my security code without the fob?" was because I was deactivating security with the old code? I'm just wondering so I know for next time.

 

I always check battery voltage of the suspect battery with my digital meter, then check battery voltage of the new battery. I buy all kinds of coin batteries, usually in a sleeve, and have been known to find a bad one in the sleeve.
Most times, with a good battery with a given device, they will develop a pattern that will begin to show when they are getting weak, and when they finally go. The key is to be aware of the "Reasonable Life" with that combo, and change before you get there. My 2011 RKC fob batteries are changed every 2 years (Every odd numbered year). Garmin TPMS batteries every year. I have watches and monitors that can go 5 years or more, some barely a year. On the larger dime batteries, I sometimes "Sharpie" the date on them when I change.
In your case, I recommend testing those batteries. For me, a low fob battery usually gets slow about disarming the system. Sometimes, you can wave the fob around closer to the bike and it may work. Same with my other autos. The HD fob is actually just an emitter sending a faint signal to the bike. As the battery weakens, distance diminishes, then gone, some faster than others.
Always note which side is up, and one more thing: Keep all dime batteries out of the reach of children - they may swallow them, and those low voltage burns can be painful, and not easily diagnosed by medical staff.
Good luck, and ride safe!

 

Radio interference can affect fob function too. Maybe you entered the code, drove away from the interference, then changed the code with the fob being recognized. I don't know, I'm just spitballing ideas. Do you have a large electromagnet in your garage? Hahaha! Go out away from everything and try the fob again?

 

I don't have a garage, I have an small semi-hard shell. I won't rule out interference, but this has been a couple weeks now, and the fob has not worked anywhere.

And don't knock yourself for spitballing - That's the type of thing I'm looking for!

 

I put the battery in upside down once ... didn't work. Dau ...