clutch slipping after oil changes
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Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 27
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From: Burlington VT
clutch slipping after oil changes
I have a 2011 ultra with 16K miles. Dealer did a three hole oil change. Amsoil in the motor, redline and HD formula plus. When I got the bike back, clutch was slipping in 3rd, 4th and 5th. They adjusted it 3 times out to a full turn. Still some limited slip in 5th. Its at the dealer having an exploratory on the clutch basket. What do you think? I bought used and don't know if the primary or transmission oil was ever changed before. Grrrrr. First week with no rain and I am without Sophie. SO far had 4200 miles this year with no issues.
Supporter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 15,788
Likes: 5,625
From: along the shore of Mishigami
My question to any HD techs out there is, how do you adjust the clutch pack on a warm engine? The service manual warns and cautions against this. The manuals call for a cold engine/primary. You should learn or watch the videos on how to this at home on your bike. When I adjust mine the rod is turned 1/2 to 3/4 turns.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,999
Likes: 55
From: Bay Area
Im venturing to guess, they put the wrong fluid in the primary. Of course if the primary was never changed (and youre assuming) in 16k, could have caused this by the flushing out of all the debris and now the plates dont have enough to grab properly. Oh the perils of buying used.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,172
Likes: 377
From: Georgia
I have a 2011 ultra with 16K miles. Dealer did a three hole oil change. Amsoil in the motor, redline and HD formula plus. When I got the bike back, clutch was slipping in 3rd, 4th and 5th. They adjusted it 3 times out to a full turn. Still some limited slip in 5th. Its at the dealer having an exploratory on the clutch basket. What do you think? I bought used and don't know if the primary or transmission oil was ever changed before. Grrrrr. First week with no rain and I am without Sophie. SO far had 4200 miles this year with no issues.
Formula+ is the correct fluid for a stock clutch and some aftermarket clutches.
It's not usaul for a clutch to need adjustment after a fluid change just because of the change but it's not unheard of. Clutches, like fluids, do need periodic maintaince.
Adjusting the clutch is not too difficult but there is a set procedure that must be followed. First the bike must be cold. Clutch cable must be completely loose. Then clutch pack adjusted. Ramp and ball seated. And the clutch cable adjusted with the correct free play. Check the service manual or youtube for complete instructions.
I would think that an unabused clutch with no history of slipping would not be worn out at 16k miles. Id think that if the slippage cannot be adjusted out that a stouter spring would cure any slipping that might remain.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,052
Likes: 342
From: Virginia Beach
If the primary was never changed and the clutch was never adjusted, the plates could be burned. They would have noticed this and I am sure they would have noted it on the work order.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 9,243
Likes: 3,267
From: west Michigan
I don't like Formula + in the Primary case. IMO, it's too thick for good clutch operation. I ran Syn3 in all 3 for 50K miles with no problems, and now run Mobil1 10-40T.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,172
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From: Georgia
HD does reccomend Formula+ for the primary as do some aftermarket clutches like my Energy One Kevlar+1 set up.
Wether it's your choice or not doesn't make it, as someone said, the "wrong" fluid.
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Supporter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 15,788
Likes: 5,625
From: along the shore of Mishigami
My 2013 FLTRU owners manual recommends Formula+ or Syn 3 oils. I've used M1 V-Twin in the primaries of all three of my bikes with no problems, but I've also stayed on top of my fluid changes and clutch adjustments.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,476
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From: Las Vegas, NV
I'd check the following:
Free play at the lever:. Should have about the width of between a dime and nickel.
Fluid level:. If you open the cover and shine a flashlight inside as long as you can see some fluid in the bottom it's fine. My suspicion is that it has too much.
My 2009 has 80k on the original clutch and I just finished up the service this morning. I've been running synthetic 20/50 oil in all three holes.
I typically do my own service work as I did today. Occasionally I'll take it in. It never fails that I find something done poorly or wrong on the next service I do from the prior shops work. Tape on the drain plug threads, a stripped screw head... Today I found a missing washer on one screw on my derby cover and some sort or thread sealant on the drain plugs.
Free play at the lever:. Should have about the width of between a dime and nickel.
Fluid level:. If you open the cover and shine a flashlight inside as long as you can see some fluid in the bottom it's fine. My suspicion is that it has too much.
My 2009 has 80k on the original clutch and I just finished up the service this morning. I've been running synthetic 20/50 oil in all three holes.
I typically do my own service work as I did today. Occasionally I'll take it in. It never fails that I find something done poorly or wrong on the next service I do from the prior shops work. Tape on the drain plug threads, a stripped screw head... Today I found a missing washer on one screw on my derby cover and some sort or thread sealant on the drain plugs.