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Hard Starting When Cold

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Old Jan 17, 2018 | 06:01 AM
  #11  
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20/50 oil??
 
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Old Jan 17, 2018 | 06:29 AM
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It is. I am noticing the voltage gauge seems to be going higher than normal while riding. I realize it’s not super accurate but it is relative. I guess I’ll figure more out when I get into it later today.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2018 | 06:44 AM
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Your connection at the battery has vibrated loose.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2018 | 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Rogue8Man
It is. I am noticing the voltage gauge seems to be going higher than normal while riding. I realize it’s not super accurate but it is relative. I guess I’ll figure more out when I get into it later today.
your regulator is probably laboring trying to charge the battery. check your system with a dvm when you get a chance...the gauge isn't particularly accurate.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2018 | 06:56 AM
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if you cant fix it with a hammer you've got a electrical problem
 
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Old Jan 17, 2018 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by RIPSAW
Your connection at the battery has vibrated loose.
This suggestion is a very reasonable place to start. It can cause all of what you'r describing.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2018 | 08:44 AM
  #17  
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When my battery gives up the ghost, I'm getting an Interstate battery. To make along story short, I had a 2004 Big Dog Chopper. I bought it new, had it 11 years until I went straight though a "T" intersection. Broke the bike, broke me. It had an S&S 107in3 engine and a brand new battery, w/ the same cold cranking amps, wouldn't even spin it fast enough to start it. Went through some batteries (did not try the HD battery, so I can say about them as a comparison). The Interstate battery (with a tender but only during the winter or long times between riding) would always do the trick. That sold me, used them ever since and plan to in the future as well.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2018 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 17VelRed
When my battery gives up the ghost, I'm getting an Interstate battery. To make along story short, I had a 2004 Big Dog Chopper. I bought it new, had it 11 years until I went straight though a "T" intersection. Broke the bike, broke me. It had an S&S 107in3 engine and a brand new battery, w/ the same cold cranking amps, wouldn't even spin it fast enough to start it. Went through some batteries (did not try the HD battery, so I can say about them as a comparison). The Interstate battery (with a tender but only during the winter or long times between riding) would always do the trick. That sold me, used them ever since and plan to in the future as well.
Was riding with a buddy this summer and his bike was starting hard and then all kinds of weird stuff started happening; from the radio being intermittent to the motor just plain shutting down while riding. He was ready to call a tow truck when i finally talked him into pulling the seat off and checking his connections. Sure enough one of the battery leads had vibrated loose.

Once we tightened it up the bike ran fine the rest of the day and has not had a problem since.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2018 | 06:52 PM
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So looked at the bike today. Battery connections were a little loose but, battery was @13.2 and went down to about 4.7 when starting, and then quickly came up to 14.3 while running @ around 3600 rpm’s. Going to have it load tested tomm. Regulator lead light test was good with no continuity, and had continuity on the stator plug. Thinking and hoping it is a battery issue and simple fix.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2018 | 07:01 PM
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Any voltage drop below 9.6 or so means a worn out battery or needing a good 3-4 day maintenance charge on it. 13.2 is actually a surface charge. After removing from a charger, hit the headlights or crank before checking charge. 12.6 is 100%. Be sure to do the charge before having checked. And remember, good chance a check is worthless 50% of the time. If it acts up later after they say it is OK, replace it. Also, test is at 2000 rpm and should be 14.7 or so on a good battery.
 
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