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The schematic is from a 2010 manual.
At the top of the drawing you see B+ connector, that is hot 24 - 7 if the Main fuse is good so you should have power to Radio Mem, Battery and ECM fuse. If you pull the Lighting Relay you should have power at 3-1J. Turn ign on and R/Bk and R/GY get hot so you can see if you have power on the rest of the fuses.
You didn't accidentally hit the Run/Stop switch on the bars did you? Is it in the run position?
the run/stop switch is in the stop position. The ignition switch is in run position. The gauges do the normal start up thing then just the mileage shows. Nothing else comes on... no radio, lights, fuel pump. Nothing. All I took off was the head light with the outer fairing. Which I hooked back up the way I took it off.
As soon as you turn the ignition on the Lighting relay coil pulls in and power from the battery is supplied to the Headlamp and Lights fuse through that relay. Find out if 12V is coming from the switch to the Ignition Fuse and Lighting Relay. Black meter lead to grd and red lead to small opening on fuse.
the run/stop switch is in the stop position. The ignition switch is in run position. The gauges do the normal start up thing then just the mileage shows. Nothing else comes on... no radio, lights, fuel pump. Nothing. All I took off was the head light with the outer fairing. Which I hooked back up the way I took it off.
Well there you go
The pump won't prime without the switch in the run position and the bike won't start.
Lights? not sure but those should come on, is it just the headlight or all the lights?
So I went and bought a new battery for ***** and giggles because I just replaced it last month. Sure enough that was the problem. Thanks for all the suggestions.
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