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When removing the cam plate, if the oil pump is left attached to the plate, does the oil pump alignment procedure need to be performed, i.e. remove the oil pump and use tapered screws for alignment? I have seen videos where the oil pump is left attached to the cam plate and not realigned.
Well there are those that will argue that alignment after removal is the only way. I can tell you though when I did my cams I left the oil pump mounted to the cam plate. No special or recommended alignment procedure. That was more than 30,000 miles ago. I've had the cam plate off to inspect/change cam tensioners since and then went back on the same. No special alignment procedure. I see no visual cues or hear anything that indicate a problem from having done this twice. Do yourself a favor and measure your crank run out while you have it apart as per procedure.
I’m one of those who would always remove from the cam plate and re-align. You might get lucky leaving it on, you might not. Only takes a few minutes extra.
Plate has dowl pins so if not taking pump off it would seams to me it's going to be just like it was which would be best . But should still spin tire with it in high gear to make sure all is well before closing up , which u have to do anyway to do push rods.
I left the oil pump installed when I did my cams on the slim, but it only had 7K on it...my Street Glide has 41K so I'm considering removing the oil pump to inspect the parts.
I just did my tensioners and removed the pump, and was puzzled by this reassembly “alignment tool” thing myself. I followed the manual, but did not use the two alignment tool pins they spoke of, but did rock the wheel when snugging up the bolts in the order prescribed. Be sure the pump finds home on the (new) big o ring before putting the cam plate on...you’ll feel it pop in when it does (be sure to use new o rings for the pump and cam plate- 4 total).
To date I’ve had no issues with the way I performed the work.
And if you’re going to cut the push rods...don’t be freaked out! Follow the tutorials on YouTube. The FSM wasn’t as helpful at this point for me. I was a bit nervous, but it’s actually not that complicated. S&S instructions are adequate, but when you read them the first time, it seems lacking in detail, but what it says is exactly what you do. But I might add, if you do use the S&S rods, be prepared to fight to get the top covers on, and be sure you toss nothing out until you’re done! You’ll reuse the top tubes and springs.
I recommend removing your oil pump and rebuilding it while apart. This is a picture of the cam plate I removed earlier this year on my 2001 twin-cam with 32K miles. As you can see, the oil pump had scored the cam plate. I lightly buffed-out the scoring with 2000 grit sandpaper and steel wool. Bike is running great and oil pressure is improved.
FYI - Pulling my 2003 twin-cam apart this winter and will use the same procedure. Realignment is simple following correct steps in service manual and using tapered alignment tool.
Your oil pump should be removed from the cam plate and installed prior to reinstalling the Cam Plate (read the service manual). Once the Cam Plate is installed you spin the rear wheel to center things up while you torque the oil pump onto the Cam Plate.
I have seen the Cam Plate and oil pump installed as a unit in several videos and have done it this way myself in the past. It was Bob Woods who told me to "Read my Manual" as he told me how important he felt it is to seat the oil pump all the way into the o-ring and then draw it back to the Cam Plate
Not sure how we got on that subject as it was not the reason for my call.
I sheared the o-ring doing it by the book, couldn't tell till riding. After coming on here and doing it learned it is easier to put plate & pump on together. Once on loosen pump and align.
oil pump alignment
