Idle stuck high???
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 546
Likes: 54
From: Toronto
Ahhh, ok lol...I'm hoping I can do this job without taking off the crossover hose under the tank, and by just loosening the tank bolts and sliding it back and propping it up as high as it will go
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 8,852
Likes: 2,493
From: Decatur, Alabama
You can. Remove all the tank bolts and push the tank forward. Move the crossover tube up and over the coil then push the tank back out of the way. You can use an old shoe to hold the tank up a little. Use a mirror to determine where the clip is for the connector then pry on it a little with a small screwdriver while pulling on it. Now drop a deep well socket down in the hole to remove the head temp sensor. DON"T put the ratchet on it. There isn't much room. After the socket is down and in place, put the ratchet on it and loosen it. When it's loose, remove the ratchet and unscrew the sensor with just the socket.
Installation is just the reverse.
carl
Installation is just the reverse.
carl
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 546
Likes: 54
From: Toronto
You can. Remove all the tank bolts and push the tank forward. Move the crossover tube up and over the coil then push the tank back out of the way. You can use an old shoe to hold the tank up a little. Use a mirror to determine where the clip is for the connector then pry on it a little with a small screwdriver while pulling on it. Now drop a deep well socket down in the hole to remove the head temp sensor. DON"T put the ratchet on it. There isn't much room. After the socket is down and in place, put the ratchet on it and loosen it. When it's loose, remove the ratchet and unscrew the sensor with just the socket.
Installation is just the reverse.
carl
Installation is just the reverse.
carl
Now to see if it fixes the issue.
Thanks everyone!
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 546
Likes: 54
From: Toronto
Bumping this back up because my high idle issue is back, even after replacing the head temperature sensor in my 98 electra glide. After a longer highway ride, idle stays at close to 2000rpm, and the only way I've been able to get it back down is sitting at a light with the clutch out enough to get it to almost die....after doing that for a couple of stops it will usually come back.
What could other possible causes be? It's quite annoying to have it idling that high in the city after the highway, and it cant be good for the clutch I'm thinking to do what I am to get it to come down
What could other possible causes be? It's quite annoying to have it idling that high in the city after the highway, and it cant be good for the clutch I'm thinking to do what I am to get it to come down
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 463
From: On a Lake, not far from the Gulf
Mine did that. It was the Idle Speed Control Motor, (IAC). Usually though it is the head Temp Sensor.
BTW, have you tried checking for any stored trouble codes?
BTW, have you tried checking for any stored trouble codes?
Last edited by larsfum; May 28, 2019 at 10:27 AM.
Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 546
Likes: 54
From: Toronto
As for checking codes, the previous owner installed aftermarket gauges so I have not tried checking codes.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 463
From: On a Lake, not far from the Gulf
Sounds like whoever previously owned the bike didn't know what they were doing, but did it anyway. You might try taking a pic of the throttle body when the bike is running right, and seeing what moves where when the idle goes high. Somehow, something is moving the throttle cam lever. If you cannot check for trouble codes because the gauges have been changed, you might try finding a Harley Service shop that will hook it up to the Scanalyzer to check for codes.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,083
Likes: 1,127
From:
If this bike did not have an idle control motor before because someone removed it then there is a possibility that some items were adjusted.
When bike had no idle control motor did it work OK?
I can see one cable end at throttle body in picture but can not see the other cable end at throttle body.
Is the other cable mounted ok ?
What do cables look like inside clam on handlebar?
The pull cable breaks at ball prior to push cable.
Is idle motor moving prior to pressing start button?
When bike had no idle control motor did it work OK?
I can see one cable end at throttle body in picture but can not see the other cable end at throttle body.
Is the other cable mounted ok ?
What do cables look like inside clam on handlebar?
The pull cable breaks at ball prior to push cable.
Is idle motor moving prior to pressing start button?
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Thread Starter
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 546
Likes: 54
From: Toronto
Idle motor moves correctly on startup and shut down. I have not had a look to see if it does it when running. Throttle and idle cables are correctly adjusted and installed correctly on both ends.
Just for s$%# and giggles I was thinking of unplugging head temp sensor connector, but I'm wondering if the bike will not run correctly doing that?
Just for s$%# and giggles I was thinking of unplugging head temp sensor connector, but I'm wondering if the bike will not run correctly doing that?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,578
Likes: 463
From: On a Lake, not far from the Gulf
Forgive me if my questions seem simplistic, and they are not meant to challenge your mechanical skills. I am just checking some basic things which should be done when swapping out the IAC.
1) Did you take the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) voltage before, and note the measurement, then use that measurement to reset the TPS after installing the new ISC?
2) After installing the new ISC, did you cycle the ignition ON and OFF three times waiting 10 seconds between each cycle?
3) After that is when you would reset the TPS voltage to the previous measurement.
4) Lastly, did you synchronize the ISC to the ECM. Key ON for 5 sec. Key OFF for 5 sec. Repeat.
If you did all those things, and because the work the PO did, the only other suggestion that I would have is to start at the beginning, and reset the TPS. Then the Cold Idle. Then the Warm Idle.
1) Did you take the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) voltage before, and note the measurement, then use that measurement to reset the TPS after installing the new ISC?
2) After installing the new ISC, did you cycle the ignition ON and OFF three times waiting 10 seconds between each cycle?
3) After that is when you would reset the TPS voltage to the previous measurement.
4) Lastly, did you synchronize the ISC to the ECM. Key ON for 5 sec. Key OFF for 5 sec. Repeat.
If you did all those things, and because the work the PO did, the only other suggestion that I would have is to start at the beginning, and reset the TPS. Then the Cold Idle. Then the Warm Idle.
Last edited by larsfum; Jun 7, 2019 at 08:33 AM.