I see you're just a few miles from me in Pensacola and if you need a second opinion or another quote I highly recommend H&D Cycles in Lillian, AL. Good folks, quality service at a reasonable price. They've been my indy for a while and I've never had a complaint.
I'm not affiliated with them in any way other than they're my shop.
YMMV,

Hoggly

 

Sorry, yes, after my post I realized I didn't have a signature that had any info.
I have about 22k miles on it. I don't know the riding style of the previous owner(s).
So, this is one thing that concerns me.
It's a 2003, so I understand it falls into the crappy bracket of, you're going to have problems if you don't fix this.
I also bought the service manual and am a huge fan of youtube,
My old man is a television repairman, he's got this ultimate set of tools. I can fix it.

So I start my wondering/research on:

1. 95 Big Bore Kit (which one?, tune?)
2. Cam Chain Tensioner... SE hyd upgrade versus just new material pads.
3. Gear Drives.
4. Updating cams.

Is there a cam chart? What would a 203 versus a 21N, etc. do for it. I need to research that also.
And then, after I do whatever combination of the above, what do I do to reprogram the ecu?

Sorry, I think I stated somewhere that I am new to the HD brotherhood. You guys are part of my research. There is no better advice than from you guys.

Thanks in advance for the time you take and have taken to help guide the new guy. I truly appreciate it.

 

If going gear drive, you should check the crank runout which should be no more than .003. When I had my 04, I went with Andrews 26g gear cams, 95 big bore (SE piston kit), mild port from Big Boyz set at 9.5:1 with an .030 head gasket and used a PCIII tuner. Eventually had it dynoed. .Did all assembly/disassembly myself. Thing ran awesome. Depending on your riding style, a low end torque cam is a good bagger cam.

 

All that said, you could simply check the tensioners and if need replacement, put in Cyco pads and ride it. Down the road with more miles, consider a 95 kit.

 

 

The stock pads are bright orange plastic. Take off your oil filter and cut it open. Use a chisel and tin snips (its really thin metal, you could about use scissors), don't grind or hacksaw. If you see bits of orange inside, your tensioner pads are shot and breaking up. You can check if there's any metal bits, too. which is why you cut, don't grind, you won't get any metal in there from the cutting.

 

I did this eact thing on my 05 RK except I went with the 509's instead of the 510's. Never looked back.

 

i did my own! I bought the cyco shoes and the block tool to peen the rivets and get the old pins out. It was lot cheaper than upgrading to the hydraulic tensioner. And not a real hard job. I also put in S&S 509 cams and adjustable pushrods alone with S&S lifters all at the same time. Lots of YouTube videos on how to do this. Also I found the fixmyhog website very useful and even subscribed to get access to the “premium” videos.

 

@ Lunchboxx I think I may go this route. Mine is an 04 with only 17K miles, but this seems like the most economical way. Did you find that the new cams and lifter, rods made a significant difference in performance? Would you recommend that when I change to Cyco shoes?
TIA - Dave

 

1) How much are you going to invest in special tools versus taking it to a shop and 2) How hard is it to set valve lash and timing?

I know my way around engines, (Ive got a well worked 454 that Ive hand build in my Corvette) but I dont want to open a can of worms and find myself in over my head because I forgot a small step or process. My 07 Eglide has 15000 miles on it and Im planning to replace the cam shoes next winter. Im the kind of guy who worries about everything and this has me worried sick. A local indy quoted me 'around a grand', give or take, to do the job. Im just wondering how much cheaper I can do it myself vs the peace of mind taking it to a guy who does this for a living.