Brake light electrical problem
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Stage I
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 1
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From: Texas
Brake light electrical problem
I have 2008 ultra classic, which has been sitting up for the past 2 years. Ive been dealing with cancer during that time, glad to say I beat it in the end. My problem is I have a short in my brake light electrical system, Ive traced and checked all the wires with the front fairing off. My question is a rather simple one , I have power to the gages, horn, turn signals etc everyting on the accessory. I keep blowing the brake fuse as soon as the ignition is turned on, Ive noticed that the red and blue wire which is the signal wire from the brake switch on the front , has 12 volts on it without the hand lever being initiated. I checked the rear brakelight switch and have 12 volts on the same signal wire, but from there to the last connection plug, the one under the seat that feeds the tailights, it drops off to 1 volt , I was thinking thats where my short is located at. Is it normal for the signal wire on the front brake switch to have 12 volts on it with out the brake lever being used?
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 191
From: Boise, Idaho
If the brake lights on your model work with switched power it would be normal to have 12 volts on one side of the switch with the ignition on. When the lever is activated power runs through the switch and then onto the relay. If on the other hand your model is switching ground to the relay that wouldn't be the case. I would check the wiring diagram for your specific model to be sure.
Road Master
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 1,351
From: Kansas
I had a Heritage that had sat awhile and was blowing turn signal/brake fuse. Spent a lot of time going over harness and testing. Never found a short or pinched wire. Some connectors had "rust" tracking from pin to pin. Decided to apply dielectric grease to every connector and that cured problem.
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 7,682
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From: Utah
Welcome to the Forum from UT
The Brake switches are supplied 12V by the Accessories fuse. A switch makes and 12 V is put on the R/BE that energises the relay. The Brake/Cruise fuse is O/V to the relay NO contact and R/Y after the relay closes the contact to the light. The brake relay should not be made as soon as you turn the ignition on. Pull the relay and turn the bike on does the fuse still blow? If not then check to see if the relay is energised, power on 2A R/BE.
If the fuse does blow, then the problem could be in the Cruise circuit. O/V supplies 12V to the Cruise switch, toggle it to off and see if the fuse still blows.
Any sign of rodents that may have chewed on wiring?
Let us know what you find.
Bill
The Brake switches are supplied 12V by the Accessories fuse. A switch makes and 12 V is put on the R/BE that energises the relay. The Brake/Cruise fuse is O/V to the relay NO contact and R/Y after the relay closes the contact to the light. The brake relay should not be made as soon as you turn the ignition on. Pull the relay and turn the bike on does the fuse still blow? If not then check to see if the relay is energised, power on 2A R/BE.
If the fuse does blow, then the problem could be in the Cruise circuit. O/V supplies 12V to the Cruise switch, toggle it to off and see if the fuse still blows.
Any sign of rodents that may have chewed on wiring?
Let us know what you find.
Bill
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Jul 4, 2019 10:15 AM
