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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 03:56 PM
  #21  
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see post #5 in below thread

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...haft-seal.html
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 05:07 PM
  #22  
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I'd hit it with an impact. I know you're not supposed to but I wouldn't risk further damage by a slipped drill bit or chisel. It won't take much.

How do you think a dealership would do it if they were working on it? I'd bet the impact would come out for a quick hit.

Zach
 
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Old Jul 21, 2019 | 06:42 PM
  #23  
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Unfortunately I've moved and some things we just didn't have the room for. A large enough compressor to run my impact is one of them. So i've been doing everything with hand tools. But a buddy of mine is coming over on tuesday with his compressor. So will be hitting it then. I've dealt with stuff like this before in prototype engineering. Sometimes those damn dampers on the front of the crank will have something like 150'lbs and 55degrees. We'd have 3 of us on a 6' 1 inch thick breaker bar trying to remove and then re-install one of them. But on a bike I'm just not equipped at the moment. Once we get to the "forever" home I'll be building another full shop. Until then it's just a bit more difficult doing things the hard/long way. Which is why it's great to pick peoples brains on here. Some really good ideas that actually do help. Drilling the nut will be a last resort, but at this point I'm getting close to that. I've definitely heated it hot enough to break the loctite, 3 days of pb-blaster along with light tapping with a brass hammer to help break any rust up. Not in a hurry anymore to get it done, but trying not to throw anymore money at it either. But hard to say.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2019 | 06:51 PM
  #24  
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Well, looks like I'll be drilling it. Buddy brought over his 6 foot cheater and that didn't do it. Compressor and impact didn't do it either. So ordering a new nut and drilling the old one.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2019 | 08:01 AM
  #25  
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The last time I did mine I broke 2 3’ bars then decided to heat the nut up and that did the trick. But if your are gonna try heat remove the belt from the pulley first or you may melt it.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2019 | 10:42 AM
  #26  
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It will work. Get that main shaft taped up and protected real good. BTW - A new nut should have been in your plans all along.

Zach

Originally Posted by soulpatch
Well, looks like I'll be drilling it. Buddy brought over his 6 foot cheater and that didn't do it. Compressor and impact didn't do it either. So ordering a new nut and drilling the old one.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2019 | 06:20 PM
  #27  
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Big-Mike we did heat it up multiple times and also when we used the breaker/cheater bar as well as the impact. And after this fiasco had actually decided to purchase a new nut even before deciding to cut it off. Anything that attached has probably got a good layer of rust on both mating surfaces. Which is why for a few days all I had been doing is pb-blaster and hitting it with a brass punch in a circular pattern hoping to break up the rust enough to get some of the blaster in it. Just one of those things. Oh, ya Big-Mike...definitely smart enough to have already removed the belt even before thinking about putting heat to it lol Been wrenching a very long time and have seen guys melt wiring harnesses, burn up coil packs, etc. just because they didn't move crap out of the way.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2019 | 08:37 AM
  #28  
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Wow I’ve been in mine a few times now and every time I’ve heated up the nut and it would come off I believe that nut has some bad *** loc tite that needs to be heated to get off.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2019 | 09:12 AM
  #29  
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What size air impact and compressor did you try? What PSI were you running the impact wrench at?
I had to up the air pressure to the impact gun. I was running 90 PSI according to the gauge on my compressor to the 1/2" impact gun. I have a 25 foot air hose. I upped the air pressure to 105 psi, and that seemed to give the Harbor Freight impact gun enough power to ever so slowly begin to turn the nut. I only have a 8-gallon Harbor Freight air compressor.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2019 | 01:47 PM
  #30  
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Was a 16 gallon compressor and we had it cranked up to 120psi. Snap-on 1/2 drive impact set at max torque. Anyway, got it off by drilling opposite sides. two quick pops with a chisel and it came off clean. sprocket slid off like butter. So cleaned everything up and pulled the seal off the main shaft. Ordered the trans housing double lip seal as well on a "just in case" since I couldn't see exactly where it was leaking. But that seal looks good and didn't see anything that looked like leaking. But may just change it anyway since it's all open. Put a dial indicator on the shaft to check any run out and it's good. What a major pain in the *** for just a little tiny seal. Like pulling the entire primary just for that damn shift lever seal (changed that again too just because).
 
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