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Would someone please look at the attached picture and tell me if you think this is normal wear at 5k miles? Its a S+S inner primary race.
I installed it when I rebuilt my transmission with the Baker Main Bearing set-up. After a few hundred miles I started getting this short squeal and small jerk when Id take off from a stop hard. Not wanting to deal with it, I kept riding.
A lot of recent primary noise made me look inside today. I found 1.25 play in the primary chain and the (Baker) Compensator bolt looser than what it should have been, plus the race in the picture. The clutch basket spins very easily and IBP rollers are a little loose until you put them into the race, then it all tightens up nicely.
Im not sure WTF to do next. Im hoping the slack chain (about 12k miles on this Diamond primary chain) is to blame for the whole thing. Im wondering about this IPB too though.
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Would someone please look at the attached picture and tell me if you think this is normal wear at 5k miles? Its a S+S inner primary race.
I installed it when I rebuilt my transmission with the Baker Main Bearing set-up. After a few hundred miles I started getting this short squeal and small jerk when Id take off from a stop hard. Not wanting to deal with it, I kept riding.
A lot of recent primary noise made me look inside today. I found 1.25 play in the primary chain and the (Baker) Compensator bolt looser than what it should have been, plus the race in the picture. The clutch basket spins very easily and IBP rollers are a little loose until you put them into the race, then it all tightens up nicely.
Im not sure WTF to do next. Im hoping the slack chain (about 12k miles on this Diamond primary chain) is to blame for the whole thing. Im wondering about this IPB too though.
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Yeah thats a lot of wear at 5000 miles. look closely at the inner primary cover. Check oiling hole above bearing. Widen the hole at the opening if you feel confident in doing that. Don't run your bike on the Jiffy stand for long periods. Make absolutely sure you fill your primary with the correct amount of ounces of primary lube. Check chain tension at least once per season or about every 5000 miles.
It also looks like by the pic that the race is pressed a touch too far on to the shaft. Race edge should be 1/8 past the end of the spline cuts. Anyhow I can't measure a pic but that's how my eye see's it. Best of luck.
The race is pressed to the 1.75" from the spline shoulder per the S+S race instructions and here is a picture of the bearing as installed. The snap ring is in the correct position and the rollers on the bearing don't show any significant wear.
Do you think the race is ok to run or should it be replaced?
Is there any known fitment/ interface issues with the S+S race and All ***** Bearing?
What is the process for enlarging the oil hole?
Is it possible that the race spins on the main shaft and that is the squeal? (seems unlikely but when it sees 130ft#s....I dunno)
I'm good with replacing whatever needs replacing, I just want to understand why and not go back wrong again and have the same issues.
Thanks Again!
I have the same setup...not quite 130 ft. lbs. but close enough. I have about 12k on it with those parts, no issues at all. I don't do any hard launches though. Is it possible your drive belt is slipping during the hard take offs? While it's apart of change out the bearing and the race...i know 50 bucks for a little chunk of metal seems crazy. Good luck
Replace the bearing and race as a set every time. You can enlarge the oiling hole by carefully chamfering the top side edge of the hole with a mini dye grinding tool. The idea is to provide a wider opening so the slightly more oil is captured in the widened hole which funnels more oil in to the bearing. Look a a few you tube videos on how to do it. If your race pressed on with difficulty (tight) I doubt it would spin on the shaft. I speculate that your bearing inside the trans, opposite the inner primary bearing, may be pooched allowing the race to torque hard against the rollers. The hard load is what is galling the surface of the race. That's my speculation. Give the trans input shaft a vigorous rattle back and forth and see if you can feel any slack. If you have 130 Ft/Lbs of torque and you like hard launches, best to gettin to premium parts all along the driveline. Drive belt included.
You should read the below thread. Save some money and use HD OEM race and bearing instead of the S&S race along with some green loctite.
"I have done this so many times that I now use all OEM parts and some green Loctite under the OEM IPB race. I have found that the HD inner primary parts work well; just need to secure the IPB race and the green Loctite does that well"
Theory (and it is only that):
Sometime in 07' the factory started putting the 08'+ main shaft in the transmissions. Mine was made in June of 07' and got the newer, thinner shaft (Mic'd the original one, this is a fact). The OD on the older was 0.9850", 0.0085" fatter than the 0.9765" of the the newer unit. This leads to some confusion about what the proper IBP for an 07' is. I bought an 07' bearing kit which is listed for 06-07'. 06' used bearing HD PN#9135,the later is HD PN#9231. I wondered what the extra snap ring and seals where for but discounted it when I installed it 5K miles ago. Some of what drove my transmission rebuild was using a Baker one-piece bearing (said to fit up to 07'), which burned my main shaft because it fit too loose. The set up pictured above is from an S+S race for 08'+ which fit properly on my shaft; but my bearing was the All-***** equal to the 07'-. The 85 thousandths difference (Bearing OD too large) may not make a big deal for some, but with my rig it does, and causes just enough flex to make the squeal and wear we see here.
Presently installed is a 2010 main shaft, new HD transmission gear needle bearings, Baker soft shift drum, Baker dual-opposed timken main drive bearings (which I spent a lot of effort assuring was shimmed to the proper end play), and a new factory drive belt; I did all the best stuff for that transmission short of buying a DD7.
I believe if I install a new S+S race with the later model bearing I should have properly matched parts and experience relief from the current issue. If not, and believe me I don't want to, I'll open the transmission back up and see what's going on in there.
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Inner Primary Race/ Take-off Squeal
