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feel like I'm missing something 14,000 mi left sounds like a new tire (???) why even measure the tread depth on it.
OTOH, assuming its not new.....tires don't wear linearly. The only thing touching the ground when you're flying 70mph around a curve is your tires. Don't skimp. Replace them both.
The tires are 3+ years old. "Why measure the tread depth?" I'm a big fan of doing whatever I can to ride safe. The OE tread depth on a D407 is 10/32". The tread depth on my rear tire with 10,500+ miles on it is 7/32" or more than half the original useable tread depth down to a conservative 3/32" IF the wear is linear. Trash an almost new tire (by tread depth) because the matching front needs replacing???? That's one approach.
The tires are 3+ years old. "Why measure the tread depth?" I'm a big fan of doing whatever I can to ride safe. The OE tread depth on a D407 is 10/32". The tread depth on my rear tire with 10,500+ miles on it is 7/32" or more than half the original useable tread depth down to a conservative 3/32" IF the wear is linear. Trash an almost new tire (by tread depth) because the matching front needs replacing???? That's one approach.
You stated in YOUR first post "I've always replaced my tires at 3/32" or greater." then you stated "The OE tread depth on a D407 is 10/32". The tread depth on my rear tire with 10,500+ miles on it is 7/32"...
Breaking out a number line from grade 2, that means (according to your own numbers) that this tire you are referencing as 'new' is nearly 1/2 way through its lifecycle, yet you stated "Trash an almost new tire (by tread depth) because the matching front needs replacing???? That's one approach"
Unclear how a tire thats nearly 1/2 way burned is almost 'new'. This also assumes your tread depth sampling was uniform and not just at the 'best' spot.
Also, you 'assume' wear is a linear function of depth which clearly this poster below.....states it is not (and I agree).
Originally Posted by BrandonSmith
Be careful on your extrapolating to estimate life remaining on tires. I've found that tires wear at an accelerated rate (they don't wear at a steady rate - the first 1//32" may be 5,000 miles, but 3/32" to 2/32" could be 1,000 miles).
I have replaced rear tires, that were different than the front tires, on several bikes, including my wife's bike.
I've had ZERO problems.
If you find that different tire combo is unsettling, you can always return, and re place the front,
Tell me more about this legal limit tread depth thing. Is this a State law or is it Federal? I can run tires down to the tube in Alabama and all they'll do is call me stupid.
Carl
In states that have mandatory annual vehicle inspections they would likely not pass a vehicle as fit for travel if the tread depth was too shallow.
Front and Rear Tire Matching - From the Dunlop Motorcycle Tire website.
Remember, the correct matching of front and rear tires is important to obtain optimum performance and handling. Follow the Tire Selection guidelines.
Mount only tires marked front wheel on the front position and only tires marked rear wheel on the rear position.
A new front tire with a worn rear tire can cause instability.
Mixing radials, or mixing radials with bias or belted-bias tires, may adversely affect handling and stability, and should only be done when specifically fitted and/or recommended by an OE vehicle manufacturer. It should be noted that many factors other than tire incompatibility can affect the handling of a motorcycle, including the weight and height of the rider, mixing worn with unworn tires and the fitment of luggage or fairings. Consult the motorcycle manufacturer before making modifications from stock.
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