I'm starting to have starter problems with my 2009 Electra Glide UC... I assume it's the starter clutch since it starts mostly, but sometimes (getting more frequent) it sounds like something is slipping/grinding. I assume this is the original starter... the bike has 30k miles on it. My bike's drivetrain is currently stock (96") with just slip-ons, A/C, and FP3 tuner... I would like to port the heads and swap in a cam, but that's not something planned for the near future. I've had the battery tested a couple months ago at the local independent shop when it first started... it tested fine.

I've seen posts/videos where folks have had similar problems and replaced the stock starter clutch with the All ***** Racing part... this is what I'm considering. Would experienced folks recommend replacing the clutch... or go ahead and replace the whole starter. If replacing the whole starter, is the stock HD starter preferred or another brand (considering possible upgrades in the future)?

From the part description online the All ***** replacement includes 2 outside o-rings to seal the starter to the primary (includes an extra). Are there any other seals/o-rings required to change the starter clutch? I've also seen a video where some dude put Teflon paste around the starter (along with the o-ring)... is this (or anything else) required to get a good seal or just the o-ring?

Ride Safely!
John.

 

The starter is easy to remove to get a look at the pinion gear and checking out the starter clutch. You can also see and check out the ring gear teeth by raising the back wheel in neutral and turning it. FYI my '09 has the HD chrome starter. I had to replace the starter clutch because HD failed to put in an oil seal at the pinion. I used the All ***** and it makes a weird sound. That was over 50K miles ago. But it always starts just fine and gears are perfect.

 

[QUOTE=MegaJohn;

I've seen posts/videos where folks have had similar problems and replaced the stock starter clutch with the All ***** Racing part... this is what I'm considering. Would experienced folks recommend replacing the clutch... or go ahead and replace the whole starter.

Ride Safely!
John.[/QUOTE]

I certainly would NOT replace the starter motor if all it needs is a clutch.
JMO

 

Yeah, just wasn't sure about other parts that might be worn inside the starter. I can check the seleniod contacts while I have it off... and take it to a local guy that rebuilds starters and electrical motors if needed.

I want to have it ready & reliable for spring... it comes early in Georgia!

Thanks,
John.

 

Thanks for the feedback.

I've been scratching my head about turning the ring-gear with the rear tire.... while in neutral. I suspect it would be while in gear and the clutch pulled.

If the ring gear turned with the rear wheel while in neutral, I would expect the starter turning the ring-gear would turn the rear wheel... which we all know it doesn't. To me, it would make more since if in gear and the clutch disengaged... but sometimes I'm easily confused.

At any rate, I get what you're saying and it would be a good idea to inspect the ring-gear with a flashlight while the starter is out.

Ride Safely!
John.

 

Hey John, do all the free stuff first. Check your cables and make sure the connections are clean and tight...the ground especially. There's a chance you could be having compensator issues too. Sure way to find out is to take a look, pull the outer primary and see what's going on. You have time to diagnose before you start spending money. If you do happen to need a starter clutch I just happen to have a brand new all ball's one sitting on my shelf...i bought it before I bothered to look at mine lol, it's looking for a good home. Once you're in there you may want to do inner primary bearing and the race. Theres a seal that goes there too. But you won't know till you look...good luck

 

Get the rear tire up off the floor. Put the trans in neutral. That frees the wheel up to spin easily. Leave the clutch alone. Then look thru the starter port hole and inspect the gear teeth as you turn the wheel with your hand.

 

I don't think the the ring gear is going to move unless you put the transmission in gear. The rest of the instruction should be correct. I would also remove the spark plugs to make turning the engine over easier.

 

MegaJohn a LOT of us have been through this exact same scenario with the 96" touring bikes. The compensator clutches were junk and caused kickback which wears out the starter clutch when they get weak. In most cases just replacing the starter clutch is all that is necessary to get it starting right but there is a good chance your compensator sprocket is weak as well. Those comps just basically have a stack of curved washers in them for springs. When they start to flatten out they loose their grip. The bike will still ride fine but when it is hot when you turn it off in neutral you may hear a clunk sometimes. That is a sure fire indication it is worn out and needs replacing. I think my dealer said Harley is on about their fifth revision of that part.

My 2010 Ultra Classic started getting hard to start when hot at just over 30,000 miles. All the connections checked out and I even replaced the battery and it didn't make any difference. I finally found some YouTube videos detailing the problem. I replaced the starter clutch with an All ***** unit and it has been fine ever since. After replacing the clutch though I would still hear kickback when starting the bike hot because the comp was worn. I replaced it with the current Screamin Eagle part and it starts just like new now every time.

Here is a link to a video detailing the compensator noise when it is worn:

Here is a link to the video I watched detailing the starter clutch diagnosis and replacement:

The fellow in the starter problem video also has a worn out compensator sprocket. When he shuts the bike off you can hear the clunk. I think I remember someone saying that Harley recommends replacing the clutch and comp at the same time on these bikes. I realize your situation may be completely different but this double whammy problem has been cropping up for years on these bikes so I figured I'd post these links in case you are hearing the same sounds.

Good luck.

 

Correct. Leave it in gear. Removing the plugs will make it easier.