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Not sure why but one side was a bitch to assemble. First the cup retained at the bottom of the fork must have been slightly off and I could not get the bottom bolt to thread.
Then, once it did thread, I couldn't get it to torque to 30ftlbs. Both the bolt and the top of the Axeo fork insert would spin. Had to thread the upper slider until snug, then torque the bottom bolt, then loosen the top of the fork to put the oil in.
I don't think there's any way to do this job without creating a bit of a mess.
Not sure why but one side was a bitch to assemble. First the cup retained at the bottom of the fork must have been slightly off and I could not get the bottom bolt to thread.
Then, once it did thread, I couldn't get it to torque to 30ftlbs. Both the bolt and the top of the Axeo fork insert would spin. Had to thread the upper slider until snug, then torque the bottom bolt, then loosen the top of the fork to put the oil in.
I don't think there's any way to do this job without creating a bit of a mess.
I just pulled mine apart and set them back to zero turns, 1 turn was way to harsh. I hope from all the responses here that zero is much better.
Agree on the mess, I have tried all types of techniques to get the 3.5 oz of fork oil in between the cylinder and fork tube. Found that patience was the only way and go slow
I'll go ahead and try setting back to '0' to see if there's a difference. Changing the rear shocks to the Revo-A's was a huge difference. The Axeo forks, not so much. Took the bike out on a 50 mile loop with lots of broken pavement, washboard highway sections and potholes on slower streets. Potholes don't bottom out and maybe there's 'some' improvement with the washboard, but not enough to justify the $700 price. Again, this observation may totally change setting back to '0'.
I'll go ahead and try setting back to '0' to see if there's a difference. Changing the rear shocks to the Revo-A's was a huge difference. The Axeo forks, not so much. Took the bike out on a 50 mile loop with lots of broken pavement, washboard highway sections and potholes on slower streets. Potholes don't bottom out and maybe there's 'some' improvement with the washboard, but not enough to justify the $700 price. Again, this observation may totally change setting back to '0'.
Willing to bet it makes a huge difference. Be sure to report back
The question I have about the zero setting in the picture above was answered by Jared at Legend:
"That is the 0 setting for those cartridges. One thing you could check to double make sure is to loosen the set screw and back the adjuster off and then readjust until it is just touching the spring with no tension. This would also be the 0 setting, or wigglethe spring side to side. If it is hard to move side to side or if it is very loose, I would recommend resetting the adjuster.
With all of that being said, they do come from factory on setting 0."
And yes the adjuster is barely touching the spring.
In case anyone in the future has the same question as me, there is your answer.
Took the fork tubes out to change from a "1" to "0".
Problem with reassembly. One of the forks, the bottom bolt will not torque to 30 ft.lbs. The assembly just spins. Double checked and cleaned the bolt of any thread lock. Still no joy. Tried popping with an impact wrench to seat it without success. I'm thinking I'll need another copper washer.
Ideas? I've reached out to Jared at at Legend.
**UPDATE**
Finally got the bolt to torque. Had no idea this was as big an issue with the Showa fork design. Do a search on "damper rod bolt". Found this site that helped.Took everything apart again and cleaned the mating surfaces with rubbing alcohol. Cleaned the bolt again and screwed it in and out of the Legends rod to make sure there was zero binding or resistance. Put the Legends rod back in the fork tube, tightened the top cap and used an impact wrench to seat the bolt then attempted to torque. Did not work the first couple of attempts but finally was able to get the bolt to seat and allow the 30 ft.lbs of torque. What a pain.
Count me in as a convert to the 'zero' setting group. What an amazing difference between '1' and '0' setting on the preload spring. Too bad there wasn't a flat on both sides of the rod to allow half turns.
Count me in as a convert to the 'zero' setting group. What an amazing difference between '1' and '0' setting on the preload spring. Too bad there wasn't a flat on both sides of the rod to allow half turns.
Interesting thought...I wonder if it would be feasible to drill and tap a hole 180 degrees from the stock set screw hole. A simple mark at the original hole can be made for future reference.
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