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Before I start, forgive me if I don’t use the proper terminology. I know how to do a lot of things, but I don’t always know what those “things” are called lol.
Threw a new set of apes on yesterday and I’m having issues with the clutch cable. While the cable adjustment was still collapsed, I went to the primary and adjusted the clutch pack (loosened jam nut/ran adjustment bolt in until lightly seated/backed it off half turn/tightened jam nut) then went back to tightening the cable. Well, I completely ran out of adjustment on the clutch cable and I still have 1/2-3/4” of play in the lever, so I’m afraid the clutch might be bad (bought bike used w/ 27k miles).
Is the super loose clutch lever indicative of a bad clutch? Can I run that adjustment bolt further in or am I going to damage something? What do I risk if I run the bolt all the way down? What happens if in my fiddling I accidentally remove that adjustment bolt?
Is the super loose clutch lever indicative of a bad clutch? NO
Can I run that adjustment bolt further in NO
or am I going to damage something? What do I risk if I run the bolt all the way down? A SLIPPING CLUTCH
What happens if in my fiddling I accidentally remove that adjustment bolt? YOU REINSTALL IT
Inside the R..H. tranny cover the cable connects to a ball and ramp device, if this comes out of place while there is no tension on the cable it can cause the symptoms you describe
Is the super loose clutch lever indicative of a bad clutch? NO
Can I run that adjustment bolt further in NO
or am I going to damage something? What do I risk if I run the bolt all the way down? A SLIPPING CLUTCH...Copy
What happens if in my fiddling I accidentally remove that adjustment bolt? YOU REINSTALL IT...Fair. Just wanted to make sure something wouldn’t fall apart inside the clutch pack if I did accidentally take it out.
Inside the R..H. tranny cover the cable connects to a ball and ramp device, if this comes out of place while there is no tension on the cable it can cause the symptoms you describe...But I can pull the clutch lever and it does actuate. With the lever pulled in and the bike in 1st, the bike creeps
...But I can pull the clutch lever and it does actuate. With the lever pulled in and the bike in 1st, the bike creeps
I`m sure it does. with that much free play at the lever the actuator does not have sufficient travel to completely DISENGAGE the clutch plates.
Therefore they drag and bike creeps
So I need to run the adjustment bolt in more? And just so I understand what you were talking about with the tranny side cover, if that cable came loose from the ball/ramp mechanism, I would just have a dead clutch lever, right?
Sounds to me like the adjustment in the primary needs redone, likely a little further in. I find the clutch on these needlessly fiddly. It works, but you need to get the knack for it.
My biggest issue is finding a balance between having some free play at the lever but also being able to find neutral when hot.
[QUOTE=carbonDRED;18860453]So I need to run the adjustment bolt in more? You can check your previous adjustment but you can NOT adjust it other than "spec". Too tight and As stated above that will result in the clutch slipping ( failure to completely ENGAGE which is the OPPOSITE of the problem you have now
Last edited by eighteight; Feb 8, 2020 at 07:01 AM.
If the cable comes loose yes, but your description means that it is still connected to a B&R that is not oriented correctly
What do you mean by that? Thinking of the B&R mechanism, if I were to orient the hooked plate with the hook facing towards the front of the bike (like where the cable comes in), wouldn’t the cable come loose when I try to actuate the clutch?
So I need to run the adjustment bolt in more? You can check your previous adjustment but you can NOT adjust it other than "spec". Too tight and As stated above that will result in the clutch slipping ( failure to completely ENGAGE which is the OPPOSITE of the problem you have now
Just watched this video and the guy in here said to make sure that the gap in the cir-clip is positioned in line with the gap in the side cover. I’m pretty sure I didn’t do that when I reinstalled it. Would that be causing this issue?
Hold on before you take more stuff apart. Check this, and if it isn't the problem, THEN go after the more complicated stuff. You would NOT be the first one to mistake a burr on the adjusting bolt for the slight resistance felt when the bolt seats. Reaccomplish the whole adjustment and this time screw in the bolt MORE THAN NEEDED several times and that will smooth out any burrs. Now repeat the adjustment as described in the book and see if that doesn't fix your problem. The plate the lock nut goes against will be free to move slightly when the proper adjustment is made and the lever is released. When making the bolt adjustment, if that plate remains loose when you believe the bolt is seated, , the bolt is NOT seated. The plate will go snug against the spring ring when the bolt is seated. That little bit of knowledge will also tell you if you are mistaking a burr for the bolt seating. Good luck, hope the easy fix works.
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2010 FLHRC Clutch problems
