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I agree need to pull as many connectors apart as you can. Look at the drawing and see what there is.
If you had anything apart, I would look there. Hard to say when others do work. If you do pull tank, it is a good time to install quick disconnects on cross over hose.
Might need to think about what was vandalized and what was fixed. More info on that might help. What was damaged and what did they replace?
Is it FI or carbed? Not seeing a fuse for pump, I think there is dedicated fuse, but not sure. This is where it helps when guys use alphabet.
Check the wires for the rear brake switch. A few years ago I put new bushings in my swing arm. When I put it all back together two wires got pinched between the swing arm and frame. Didn't realize it until last year when I blew a fuse. I had everything disconnected and it was still blowing fuses. Finally found the pinched wires that were shorting out.
Check the wires for the rear brake switch. A few years ago I put new bushings in my swing arm. When I put it all back together two wires got pinched between the swing arm and frame. Didn't realize it until last year when I blew a fuse. I had everything disconnected and it was still blowing fuses. Finally found the pinched wires that were shorting out.
Is brake light part of that circuit? I haven't looked, dunno.
I think it is. My speedo, turn signals, brake lights, etc. all went out.
It looks like you got your meter on the instrument fuse not light. That year might have had a recall on the wires to the rear brake light, rubbing under the fender from the tire. But I I don't think this is a light issue. You can enter VIN and find that out though.
I had my hand controls apart to lube cables and ended up with a strand of wire shortening and blowing fuse. Though I think that was ignition. Need to look at wiring diagram, other wise wasting time.
Also need to focus on what worked on. What was replaced, what was damaged, and how long ago was it. Always good to think about that, but if it was to long ago, didn't fixate on that either.
I may be wrong, but here goes. The brake light should only pop a fuse when it is activated by either switch. Unless there is ALSO a switch malfunction, (brake light always on) the brake light should not be a player in this, or any fuse blowing.
I may be wrong, but here goes. The brake light should only pop a fuse when it is activated by either switch. Unless there is ALSO a switch malfunction, (brake light always on) the brake light should not be a player in this, or any fuse blowing.
If the fuse in a circuit blows when power is turned on, the short is before the switch, if the fuse blows when the switch is activated, the short is between the switch and the component controlled by that switch.
The OP`s issue is not a brake light issue, however, it is a instruments circuit issue.
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