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No. I warmed it up first. The book said to do the test at operating temperature if possible. I let the bike run for about 5 minutes prior to taking the readings.
Fuel filter. However, you usually lose your idle if it is the fuel filter on a normal stock Harley since idle is lean. With a tuner and your set up, it would show up at the top end. Do a fuel pressure test. It is always the same so idle or WOT has the same since the relief controls it. Around 65 PSI.
Be sure the throttle body is open when checking compression Throttle by electrical requires you to manually open it or a procedure. This would enable you to not have to take the cover off the filter. However, now would be a good time to do that. Maybe a rodent has taken up residency!? Haa.. Pull the fuel pump relay. You don't add oil unless it is low and then that shows you if it is rings or valves. Leakdown probably is better to check where the leak is if the original standard compression test is low.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Apr 14, 2020 at 09:57 AM.
The higher the gear, and the faster you are going, the more power it would take to go faster. So, Id look at things that would change and impact power: fuel delivery including pump & filter, dirty or worn injectors, timing, compression although you probably eliminated that.
Last edited by TriGeezer; Apr 14, 2020 at 06:08 PM.
You won't like this answer, but I saw the same thing on my 2007 UC. Scissored crank. Mine was out on the primary side & the compensator was rubbing against the inner primary. Cost $6k+ to fix.
You won't like this answer, but I saw the same thing on my 2007 UC. Scissored crank. Mine was out on the primary side & the compensator was rubbing against the inner primary. Cost $6k+ to fix.
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