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Changed fork oil...what a big improvement, filled left leg thru the drain hole

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Old May 23, 2020 | 07:50 PM
  #21  
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did you get a toolkit with your bike? i believe (don't quote me on this, been a while) that the stamped steel wrench that they give you for the rear axle fits the fork caps. like i said, can't swear to it, cause i have the socket, so that's what i use.
 
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Old May 23, 2020 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by skratch
did you get a toolkit with your bike? i believe (don't quote me on this, been a while) that the stamped steel wrench that they give you for the rear axle fits the fork caps. like i said, can't swear to it, cause i have the socket, so that's what i use.
I didn't get a tool kit, no. I was wondering, however, if the 36mm spanner wrench for my SV1000S rear axle nut would fit. 1 3/8" is approximately 35mm but I suppose it may work.
 
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Old May 24, 2020 | 09:42 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Cozz
It does. I changed my shock oil that way last week. Very easy. Not real happy with the results though. I filled with atf. Didn’t see much difference. Still hard going over bumps or frost heaves, will bottom on a pot hole or sink hole. Oil too thin ? Thinking about switching it up with some 10 wt. Thoughts? I weigh 250 and ride solo.
in a word, yes.
Atf is quite thin, and the results you describe ate typical symptoms off inadequate damping from too thin an oil.

by all mean, try 10. Try 15 and 20 too, if you’re game and don’t find the job hard. Keep notes, and you’ll have a good tuning guide.
 
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Old May 24, 2020 | 09:59 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by larsfum
Easier way is to remove the shrader valve from the front air suspension valve. Hook up a mighty vac. Place the proper amount of fork oil into a container with a hose, and rubber tip. Place tip into drain hole. Pump mighty vac, keeping pressure up till all fluid is sucked up. Keep pressure on, remove tip, install drain plug. Easy as pie.
Good info right there.
 
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Old May 24, 2020 | 10:09 AM
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I have no experience with fork cartilages. If the guy in the video took the bike apart enough to remove the fork caps, why not just pour the new oil in from the top? It will get where it needs to go and no double crewing a syringe needed..
 
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Old May 24, 2020 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by larsfum
Easier way is to remove the shrader valve from the front air suspension valve. Hook up a mighty vac. Place the proper amount of fork oil into a container with a hose, and rubber tip. Place tip into drain hole. Pump mighty vac, keeping pressure up till all fluid is sucked up. Keep pressure on, remove tip, install drain plug. Easy as pie.
you can also refill a fork through the bottom drain plug this way. You’ve got to be quick getting the plug in. But it is doable.
 
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Old May 24, 2020 | 10:27 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by btsom
I have no experience with fork cartilages. If the guy in the video took the bike apart enough to remove the fork caps, why not just pour the new oil in from the top? It will get where it needs to go and no double crewing a syringe needed..
Simple, because you can't

The Cartridge "Shaft" is attached to the cap effectively "Plugging" the hole that would normally be open on the traditional Damper Rod Forks


.
 

Last edited by multihdrdr; May 24, 2020 at 10:55 AM.
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Old May 24, 2020 | 10:50 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by foxtrapper
in a word, yes.
Atf is quite thin, and the results you describe ate typical symptoms off inadequate damping from too thin an oil.

by all mean, try 10. Try 15 and 20 too, if you’re game and don’t find the job hard. Keep notes, and you’ll have a good tuning guide.
Ended up putting in Maxima 10 wt. fork oil. The ride is better than it was originally. Another thing is, these shocks need higher pressure to work correctly. It states this in the owners and shop manuals. I’m running 35-40 lbs in mine at all times and I ride solo. I know that sounds counter intuitive but that’s how they are. They are never going to be much more than just ok, quality wise, but if you feel like messing around with them you can probably make them better. I may try some 15 wt in mine just for the hell of it just to see what happens. It’s a cheap experiment.
 
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Old May 24, 2020 | 10:59 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Cozz
Changed out my old fork oil yesterday. God knows what was in it. Each leg was a different color oil, both were dirty and smelled pretty bad. Refilled with Maxima 15 wt. Rides great, much less brake dive. I re-filled the left leg ( which has the cartridge in it ) thru the drain hole with a two ounce syringe, with a little help from my wife. She re filled the syringe while I held my finger over the hole. You just have to be really quick putting the drain bolt back in. Right leg, with no cartridge , fills from the top. There’s a video on you tube of a guy that does his this way , so I figure what the hell, i’ll Give it a try. Sure enough, it worked just fine. This prevents having to take the front end apart to remove the left leg for drain and re-fill. I could not be happier with the results. Never stop learning.😉
By filling it through that drain hole you got all of the air out too. This will keep contamination down as well, and your oil will last a lot longer.
 
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Old May 24, 2020 | 11:10 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Architect
Unless that fork oil was in there for a very long time, smelly and discolored is a sign that you have bad fork seals and you are getting water/contaminants into the fluid. Something to think about.
Exactly! A common cause is when someone trailers a bike and cinches straps down on the handlebars, instead of the wheel itself (straps over the fender or directly on the lower part of the tubes where no bouncing stress from road bumps will result on the seals).
 

Last edited by hvacgaspiping; May 24, 2020 at 11:11 AM.
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