KST Spearhead bars on 2016 Road Glide
So my number 1 question on the Vanguard series = Spearhead bars on a RG do you need a new top clamp. 1 video I watched says yes. Many other do not show having to change out the top clamp just reuse the OEM clamp. Can someone clear that up.
It also seems different bikes have different connectors. Meaning KST video never mentioning un-pinning any connector but some do mention it is a must. Confused on what really needs to be done to fish harness's in the Spearhead/Mayhem style sharp curves. Anyone that has done a 2016 RG that can add any input would be great. I am not to worried about understanding taking time push/pull and it will take some time. I have considered just doing the Pathfinders that do not have such a hard edge radius turn.
Only advantage I have is I am the Plant Manager for a company. We build cable and wiring harness's for many application, so I see uninserting and inserting 100's of different connectors and pin style everyday. I also know we have some where we take multiple harness and run them through different hardware that require what we call blue slime a specific product to allow bundles of wires to slide through. But that being said the above question prior to purchase will help me decide.
Thanks in advance
Last edited by flippinhd; Apr 26, 2020 at 09:25 AM. Reason: more info
Your bike should be ok for the same top clamp. The wiring should be the same as mine with very small plugs and only 3 wire looms.
Tht ODO button is removed first. Pull it upwards so it clicks up then you slide it away from the control pack. Its a little resistant but it will pop off. There is a you tube vid on it I believe. Once you do it you'll see it is rather easy.
Your bike should be ok for the same top clamp. The wiring should be the same as mine with very small plugs and only 3 wire looms.
Tht ODO button is removed first. Pull it upwards so it clicks up then you slide it away from the control pack. Its a little resistant but it will pop off. There is a you tube vid on it I believe. Once you do it you'll see it is rather easy.
Last edited by flippinhd; Apr 26, 2020 at 12:50 PM. Reason: info
I ordered mine from J&P Cycles and got them in two days. So hopefully it doesn't take until Friday to get yours.
And yes, I love that braiding as well. I used it for all of my wiring runs on my audio install.
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So bars came in yesterday. I had already dis-assembled OEM bars, that took about 20 mins. max. Of course I watched and re-watched video's left and right before ordering bars so knew what to look for and do.
My report is unlike many, I used my mesh braiding because we use a hot cutter when cutting this type of braid, so like when working with nylon rope you always burn the edge so there is no fraying of the material. KST sends a much small size braid to use to pull through bars and it frays like crazy like you see in their video's.
So I had both side throttle and clutch side wires pulled with switch mounts and grips mounted in under 15 mins. I did not have any issue's like most seem too. I pretty much timed every step of the entire process.
Plugged all wires back up, then started the mount and adjustment stage. My only hang up was with my ignition switched pulled I got the bars into the locked position by mistake and hence could no continue to make adjustments. It really fought me so watched a quick video on the process if your ignition gets completely out of sync how to get it set back correctly. So I pull the entire assembly off the bike and at that point put the switch back in and thank goodness for whatever reason it dropped right back into place and all positions were then correct. Remounted and bars unlocked went back to final adjustment. Ignition problem too about 18 mins. to get all fixed up.
I am pretty ****, so obviously the base is no big deal, that is just a left to right adjustment, easy. Then the base main pull back was easy. The final step was the twist or bar pull back position, took a little bit to make sure left and right we're the exact same measurements. Used multiple guide points to measure from and then tightened everything to torques specs. All the adjusting too me about 20 mins. to get it exactly where I wanted everything, bars, switches, brake/clutch position.
Entire job took me 1.25 hrs. 18 mins. wasted with my haste on the re-install of the ignition.
So for me this was straight forward and extremely easy. NO fighting with the now infamous wire pull.
Final note, I however agree I have no clue how 14" bars could be done without new clutch and brake lines. 12" were fine but for safety I even loosened the line position mounts so that I my lines were not under and pull pressure. For me another 2" would have strained the lines way to much IMO.
Last edited by flippinhd; May 1, 2020 at 08:09 AM. Reason: info
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