Gents,

I need some guidance. My bike, 2011 FLHR, will not start.....9/10 times. It turns over strong, but won't fire. ANd the odd time it does fire, it sounds healthy and runs perfectly.
I've checked the following;

-Plugs, swapped for new ones (HD)
-Good spark
-fuel pressure (55psi, perfect)
-petcock quick connect, not sticking
-CPS, swapped for new one, same issue

Not throwing any codes...... what gives ???

running a powervision tune that hasnt changed in 2 years but I don't keep the unit on the bike.

Installed new clutch basket, discs and VP plate right before this all happened



someone pleaasaaaase shine some light on this

thanks!

 

Is it possible to put the stock tune in the ECM and see if it runs. Then reprogram to the P/V tune and see what happens.

 

Fuel filter?
Internal fuel hose leak?
My 07 sprung a leak in the internal high pressure hose, same thing happened, cranks over fine, wont start, then starts like there was nothing wrong.
Sprung a leak with hose rubbing against a brace in there.

 

Turn ignition on.
Run switch to run
Fuel pressure should go to 55-60 psi AND STAY THERE.
If it does not maintain pressure for an extended period of time than this is probably your problem.

I had the same problem until I repaired a pressure leak in the tank. The Pressure would go to 58 psi but drop almost immediately when first turning the ignition/run switch on.

I have monitored my pressure. Now it goes to 58 psi and stays there for several hours even without the engine running.

 

thanks guys!

ill be checking that out tonight. It does pin 55 but drops to about .......52ish over a few seconds. I didn't leave it on long enough to see if it dropped more than that.

 

How are you checking fuel pressure? Sounds like something I should learn.

I'm interested to see how this one turns out - I didn't even have a guess for those symptoms. Sounds like you're likely to be going into the tank, so if you're interested here's what I would recommend after doing my 2011 Dyna's last year. Basically it's to get properly set up to take the tank on and off, and to refresh everything while you're in there.

I made a wooden stand to hold the tank, and I definitely recommend it. Without a stand it's just going to end up on the floor, vulnerable to damage of all sorts, so I would want it for that part alone. I originally made it so that I could paint correct and polish the tank - it's made tall enough so that I can get the machine under it to do the paint underneath, too. It ended up being where I did all the other fuel filter work, as well.

Second, there is a cross-over fuel line under the neck of the frame that has to be undone to remove the tank. I would get a new hose so that you can just cut the current one as part of the removal process, and because it's 10 years old. Princess Auto had some hose pinchers that I used to pinch either end of the hose, allowing me to cut it in the middle. You should look up what people do to deal with draining the gas: funnels and catch cans and stuff. I made a huge mess so I can't advise much here, lol. I learned that even on 'E' on the guage, there's still plenty of fuel left in the tank to put some pressure on that outlet. Finally, get several of the proper hose clamps from the dealer: those worm-gear hose clamps look terrible. But don't buy the tool, make one by blunting the blades on nipper pliers. Worked fine for me.

Third, do everything you can while you're in there. Going in at all requires a new 'top plate seal' and screws. I got a new fuel inlet sock, filter kit, and regulator kit. I was able to get a new hose that goes to the outlet of the tank, but there is one in there that was not available. I have a bookmark for a thread here where someone talked about what would work - some sort of submersible pressure something or other - but I didn't have time to get it, so I'll have to go back in and do that.

I would love to see pictures if you do find a leak. I've seen a lot of threads that say it rubs somewhere, and I wonder if this is the same hose as my one. My inlet sock was worn down from vibration/rubbing on the tank bottom, so that could be related.

 

While in there you have to reroute the high pressure hose, IF that's the problem.
I have found that you CAN check it prior to getting into it.
With about a 1/4 tank, fuel door open, with a LED flashlight looking onto the tank, turn on ignition so the pump primes, if you can see/ hear fuel spray, then the hose has a hole in it. BUT it doesn't necessarily mean it doesn't if you cant hear/ see anything, could still be it......it is a PIA!!!
When in there make note of the routing of the hose, and route it AWAY from that brace.
Been there............GOOD LUCK!!!

 

I have a gauge that, using a quick disconnect fitting, fits under the tank lower left side. You disconnect the existing Quick Disconnect and insert the gauge in between the tank and hose..
Here is a LINK and picture. Very compact. I leave it connected all the time. Once I am confident my problem is resolved, I will take it off. Takes about 1 minute to install and 1 minute to remove.
'
Incidentally, you do not have to remove the tank from the bike to service the innards. At the most you need to remove the cowling to get at the base plate for the innards. One word of caution, The fuel pump and filter piece of the innards needs to be un-sprung before attempting to remove it completely or you will break something. Refer to the SVC manual for the correct procedure.

EDIT: My info regarding removing the innards are accurate only for my 2002 Road King. I do not know about the other bike year/models.

 

wow lots of good info, thanks for the help guys

My weekend got away from me, unfortunately not on the bike. Gonna have to do it tomorrow.

 

update...


So I finally pulled all the guts out. And everything looks perfect. The fuel filter is gunky, so I'll change that, I don't think its ever been changed. But the lines themselves look perfect.

any other ideas?