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Hydraulic clutch flush (fail)

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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 09:18 AM
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Default Hydraulic clutch flush (fail)

2016 FLHXS

I tried to follow the exact instructions in this video:

I even bought the syringe kit he has linked in the video description. That is issue #1. The vinyl tubing that comes with the syringe is really just a tad too small to fit over the bleeder valve. You really have to force it on there and even then it doesn't want to stay on. During the process, the tubing slipped off with the bleeder valve open and now I have air in the lines and the clutch lever has almost no resistance. I bought some 1/4" ID tubing at home depot and it is the perfect size for the bleeder valve, but now it's too big for the syringe side! What a nightmare.

Issue #2, he is clearly using a 1/4" wrench on the bleeder valve. My valve really doesn't agree with 1/4" and I was completely rounding off the bleeder valve nut. Can I purchase a replacement? How involved is that?

What do I need to do to remedy this? Thanks
 
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 09:29 AM
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Damn, sorry to hear that. I've used this procedure and worked pretty good. Even though my bleed seem to go well, I still had to pump the clutch about 50 times to tighten up. I guess I had a little air in it also. Since that nut isn't that tight, can you just use plyers in the meantime to loosen and tighten?

 
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 09:33 AM
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The bleeder valve can be replaced. I would get a new bleeder valve (from your dealership probably) the correct size open end wrench, more Dot 4 and do it all again. There is air in the line obviously, you need to get it out. Good luck...

Also, it is me or he has 4 mirrors on that bike.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by CrBear
Damn, sorry to hear that. I've used this procedure and worked pretty good. Even though my bleed seem to go well, I still had to pump the clutch about 50 times to tighten up. I guess I had a little air in it also. Since that nut isn't that tight, can you just use plyers in the meantime to loosen and tighten?
When you were pumping the clutch where you just doing exactly that, or were you pumping the clutch lever, holding it down and cracking the bleeder open? Just trying to figure out what I should be doing when I try this again.


Originally Posted by cruzomatic
The bleeder valve can be replaced. I would get a new bleeder valve (from your dealership probably) the correct size open end wrench, more Dot 4 and do it all again. There is air in the line obviously, you need to get it out. Good luck...

Also, it is me or he has 4 mirrors on that bike.
How do I replace the bleeder valve, just simply unthread the old one all the way out and thread the new one in? Do you happen to know the correct size wrench? I am just dumbfounded that he is using a 1/4" flawlessly in his video but that size is not working for me. So just by restarting the entire process, the air will be eliminated? Assuming I do it correctly...
 
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by twincam10353
When you were pumping the clutch where you just doing exactly that, or were you pumping the clutch lever, holding it down and cracking the bleeder open? Just trying to figure out what I should be doing when I try this again.




How do I replace the bleeder valve, just simply unthread the old one all the way out and thread the new one in? Do you happen to know the correct size wrench? I am just dumbfounded that he is using a 1/4" flawlessly in his video but that size is not working for me. So just by restarting the entire process, the air will be eliminated? Assuming I do it correctly...
Yes just screw it out and replace, better yet replace it with a speedbleeder type. I just replaced my clutch slave with the Muller slave and it to a few tries to get it to bleed right.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Sparky357
Yes just screw it out and replace, better yet replace it with a speedbleeder type. I just replaced my clutch slave with the Muller slave and it to a few tries to get it to bleed right.
Do you have a link for it? What happens when you unscrew the bleeder all the way, does fluid start pissing out?
 
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 10:29 AM
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[QUOTE=twincam10353;19175421]When you were pumping the clutch where you just doing exactly that, or were you pumping the clutch lever, holding it down and cracking the bleeder open? Just trying to figure out what I should be doing when I try this again.
Yes, just pumping the clutch after the fluid was completed. I was going to try and get the air out but it started tightening up. Has been fine for probably 1 1/2 yrs now.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 10:43 AM
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I think I just figured out that when turning the bleeder valve you need a flare nut wrench, not a normal wrench. That is probably why I rouned off the edges of the nut.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 11:55 AM
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You can replace the bleeder screw with a Speedbleeder.

SB8125L is the part number.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2020 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by twincam10353
I think I just figured out that when turning the bleeder valve you need a flare nut wrench, not a normal wrench. That is probably why I rouned off the edges of the nut.
You don't need a flare nut wrench. You used the wrong size or a junk wrench to round off the bleeder. You just need a quality six point box wrench of the correct size.

Good luck...
 
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