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A big torque wrench that goes to 175 ftlbs. The compensator bolt is an odd size I believe too. The newer SE compensator requires a large T70 torx bit if that's what you replace with.
To hold the sprockets I've used a piece of wood but metal is better. 6" will work.
Last edited by sanman4ever; Jul 28, 2020 at 09:34 PM.
A big torque wrench that goes to 175 ftlbs. The compensator bolt is an odd size I believe too. The newer SE compensator requires a large T70 torx bit if that's what you replace with.
To hold the sprockets I've used a piece of wood but metal is better. 6" will work.
I think, my 1/2" drive goes to 200, but have to look again to be sure. Might be 150, that would suck, if so. I need to get me a long breaker bar to remove that but, if I do this. If I do, I want all this stuff there ahead of time, tools wise. I know parts will need to be ordered, and that means down time, I do not like, but it is what it is I guess.
For touring models, all gears minus 1st are helical cut since 2010. 1st and 5th were straight (with 2,3,4,6 helical) in 07-09. All gears were straight cut in the 5 speed.
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Thanks for that clarification....
I always have a hard time remembering how they match the straight cut with helical gears in the 6 speeds... I knew they had changed it around once or twice and that's where they lost me...
So you are saying the chain is possibly TOO tight, and that causes the clank noise? My thinking is the noise is the taking up of chain slack, but your theory would make the noise in the compensator, right?
You have an auto adjuster in the primary drive.
It has not self adjusted.
you do not need to remove the primary cover, the slop when getting on and off
throttle can be adjusted by the following
Let the bike cool off
Place the transmission in first gear with the engine off
sitting on the bike rock the bike back and forth against the transmission.
the auto adjuster will bump up taking out the slack.
Take the bike for a test ride.
I found I needed to self adjust the auto adjuster fairly regularly.
When I notice the primary seems sloppy, I park the bike in first gear to remind me.
I have just replaced my compensator and auto adjuster at over 100,000 miles, the 14 and up are robust.
There are a lot of claims the adjuster will over tighten, but have been advised the auto adjuster will not and from my experience with a 07 road king and a 14 limited both with over 100,000 miles, I have had no problems.
I think I will combine suggestions from this thread. I will pull the clutch cover and see how much slack there is and try the rocking method you suggest, and see if it makes a difference.
Its not necessary but it is your bike.
while you are in there check the primary fluid level.
When you change the primary fluid, I change mine with my engine oil and do both trans and primary with it.
But make sure you put in the volume your primary require, both of mine took 38 oz
the ultra low with a narrower primary I believe takes less
Its not necessary but it is your bike.
while you are in there check the primary fluid level.
When you change the primary fluid, I change mine with my engine oil and do both trans and primary with it.
But make sure you put in the volume your primary require, both of mine took 38 oz
the ultra low with a narrower primary I believe takes less
According to the dealer I bought it from in April, the fluids were changed at a little over 51k on the bike. I just turned over 54k the other day.
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