Ordered Ohlins today - front and back
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 322
Likes: 29
From: Maryland
Hey Striper,
I have the same shocks purchased from Howard. Got them about five years ago. You shouldn't have to jack up the bike when adding a passenger. That's just to measure sag. I assume you already did that for your solo riding.. When adding a passenger, it seems to work out to be approximately 25 to 35 lbs for each complete turn of spring pre load. If you notice a little bottoming, it only takes a minute to add another turn. I have found my passenger seems to like the ride best when I have a little more sag. So if I get a few bottom outs, it's no big deal. Plus I ride pretty easy with her on the back.
I put a nice big magic marker dot on the adjuster collar so it is easy to see a complete rotation. I would also put a light coat of chain lube type oil on the threads so they turn nicely. I have read some guys screwing up the aluminum threads. But they are great shocks, especially when dialed in.
I also have Howard's complete front end conversion with his massive triple tree and adjustable Road & Track Ohlins cartridges.. They are amazing! But that's a completely different discussion.
I have the same shocks purchased from Howard. Got them about five years ago. You shouldn't have to jack up the bike when adding a passenger. That's just to measure sag. I assume you already did that for your solo riding.. When adding a passenger, it seems to work out to be approximately 25 to 35 lbs for each complete turn of spring pre load. If you notice a little bottoming, it only takes a minute to add another turn. I have found my passenger seems to like the ride best when I have a little more sag. So if I get a few bottom outs, it's no big deal. Plus I ride pretty easy with her on the back.
I put a nice big magic marker dot on the adjuster collar so it is easy to see a complete rotation. I would also put a light coat of chain lube type oil on the threads so they turn nicely. I have read some guys screwing up the aluminum threads. But they are great shocks, especially when dialed in.
I also have Howard's complete front end conversion with his massive triple tree and adjustable Road & Track Ohlins cartridges.. They are amazing! But that's a completely different discussion.
Ride safe!
Thanks
Last edited by striper.seeker; Aug 6, 2020 at 11:08 AM.
Just waiting on the shocks to come in. Received reservoir brackets yesterday (Kraus).
BTW if anyone has any tips on removing the fork and replacing the front shocks with the cartridges let me know. Back shocks should be easy, but little harder to find online tutorials on front forks.
BTW if anyone has any tips on removing the fork and replacing the front shocks with the cartridges let me know. Back shocks should be easy, but little harder to find online tutorials on front forks.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 47
Likes: 9
From: Virginia
I was referring to Ohlin's instructions on adjusting pre-load. I've even asked them on the phone and they confirmed there should be no weight on the bike when changing the pre-load. They said it can strip the threads. IDK. I like the idea about the dot, I just use that Nylon screw. I was going to try a thin tie-wrap just below where it should be. That little nylon screw is a PITA too. I forget to loosen it all the time...lol
Ride safe!
Thanks
Ride safe!
Thanks
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 322
Likes: 29
From: Maryland
That's a fair point. And I understand they do not want the threads to get stripped. They are prone to that if they are not kept oiled. That is why I mentioned that.. For what it's worth, in my five years of using them, I have never lifted the bike to make a quick adjustment. Only for a sag measurement. And I also always forgot to loosen that nylon screw. But I do keep it so well oiled I have never had a problem. I don't even use the tool. I just use my hand to turn it.
Thanks for the tip.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 47
Likes: 9
From: Virginia
And to answer your question, the collar has never turned on it's own from vibration. And my bike is a way souped up 127 inch motor with a 164 ft lbs of torque. It won't move..
Last edited by adognharley; Aug 6, 2020 at 08:09 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,703
Likes: 909
From: SE Michigan
That's a fair point. And I understand they do not want the threads to get stripped. They are prone to that if they are not kept oiled. That is why I mentioned that.. For what it's worth, in my five years of using them, I have never lifted the bike to make a quick adjustment. Only for a sag measurement. And I also always forgot to loosen that nylon screw. But I do keep it so well oiled I have never had a problem. I don't even use the tool. I just use my hand to turn it.
Keep the threads clean, remove your bags when you wash the bike, use a nylon or copper wire brush to keep the threads clean.
I too run a hair more sag then recommended but gave it two more clicks of compression.
With freeze joints in MI, where you can see a 2 to 4 inch rise in the pavement, recommended sag will want to kick you off the seat.
Backing off preload was the key for me, solo and two up.
I've never tightened that plastic set screw. I made a mark on the adjuster with a sharpie, 2nd bike and 30K miles on my Ohlins, collar has never moved.
I've also never jacked it up to add or remove preload, 4 more turns when I go 2 up.
I also use a similar bike chain lube, key is to find something that doesn't attract dirt and debris.
Served me well so far. Keep the threads clean, best advice I can give you.
I have a bracket to mount my reservoirs. Not sure if Howard included it or my buddy made it as I bought mine 2nd hand, but my rezzies are mounted behind my bags and I put the chrome filler plates in between the bags and frame for a clean look.
Last edited by dajogejr; Aug 7, 2020 at 05:20 AM.
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 47
Likes: 9
From: Virginia
This.
Keep the threads clean, remove your bags when you wash the bike, use a nylon or copper wire brush to keep the threads clean.
I too run a hair more sag then recommended but gave it two more clicks of compression.
With freeze joints in MI, where you can see a 2 to 4 inch rise in the pavement, recommended sag will want to kick you off the seat.
Backing off preload was the key for me, solo and two up.
I've never tightened that plastic set screw. I made a mark on the adjuster with a sharpie, 2nd bike and 30K miles on my Ohlins, collar has never moved.
I've also never jacked it up to add or remove preload, 4 more turns when I go 2 up.
I also use a similar bike chain lube, key is to find something that doesn't attract dirt and debris.
Served me well so far. Keep the threads clean, best advice I can give you.
I have a bracket to mount my reservoirs. Not sure if Howard included it or my buddy made it as I bought mine 2nd hand, but my rezzies are mounted behind my bags and I put the chrome filler plates in between the bags and frame for a clean look.
Keep the threads clean, remove your bags when you wash the bike, use a nylon or copper wire brush to keep the threads clean.
I too run a hair more sag then recommended but gave it two more clicks of compression.
With freeze joints in MI, where you can see a 2 to 4 inch rise in the pavement, recommended sag will want to kick you off the seat.
Backing off preload was the key for me, solo and two up.
I've never tightened that plastic set screw. I made a mark on the adjuster with a sharpie, 2nd bike and 30K miles on my Ohlins, collar has never moved.
I've also never jacked it up to add or remove preload, 4 more turns when I go 2 up.
I also use a similar bike chain lube, key is to find something that doesn't attract dirt and debris.
Served me well so far. Keep the threads clean, best advice I can give you.
I have a bracket to mount my reservoirs. Not sure if Howard included it or my buddy made it as I bought mine 2nd hand, but my rezzies are mounted behind my bags and I put the chrome filler plates in between the bags and frame for a clean look.
Last edited by adognharley; Aug 7, 2020 at 09:06 AM. Reason: screwed up
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,703
Likes: 909
From: SE Michigan
I am tempted to upgrade my #3 -3's to what you have. I don't have a compression adjustment on my shocks; just rebound and of course spring pre load. You also have more piston travel. That is always a good thing. I think you are spot on in your advice to bump up the compression a tad and back off the spring pre load a bit. This is what perfectly dialed in my front. I understand many people just want to install shocks and forget them. But it really makes a difference when you take the time to dial them in. Sounds like you nailed it.
Now, with a little over 3K on the fronts, I've adjusted the rears and the bike rides as it should.
It was bucking, like a pogo action. Off season I'm going to have the cartridges sent to Legends to look them over...sucks I gotta pay labor or remove them myself.
Their support was very good on the phone and promised quick turn around.
All in all I got about 30K on the rear shocks. Sending them to Howard over the winter for a rebuild and possibly a respring if he sees fit.
No issues, but probably time to replace seals, change fluids and give them the once over.
The key is wife comfort. When she's on back I use her feedback as to the direction of adjustment. I think I got it 95% of the way there.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,879
Likes: 1,894
From: East Coast, USA
@wolverinehusky
I know this is an old post, but I have a question about the Kraus remote reservoir mount. I have a 2011 Ultra. Do you think this mount would allow me to mount the reservoir of my Ohlin HD-357 to the bracket under my tour-pak? Since I have a permanently mounted tour-pak, this location makes sense to me.
I know this is an old post, but I have a question about the Kraus remote reservoir mount. I have a 2011 Ultra. Do you think this mount would allow me to mount the reservoir of my Ohlin HD-357 to the bracket under my tour-pak? Since I have a permanently mounted tour-pak, this location makes sense to me.