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I'm looking at installing the quick detach kit, but I don't want to buy the $600 kit which comes with bag lights. I'd like to buy just the docking hardware, and use a new taillight which has integrated signals (Saving $300). Does the limited require anything special or is it plug and play for lights like the HOGWORKZ integrated signal brake light? I can't find any info on one with integrated signals.
HOGWORKZŽ Low Pro LED Taillight & Signals w/ Plate Light | Smoked Lens
If so, in the description for them it says turn signals have to be hard wired in, under the "Important Feature", and the pictures on their site just show the bulb/socket connector and then a couple loose wires. Guessing the loose wires are your turn signal wires.
This pic below is for my bike, a 2016 FLTRU, I think (verify for yourself) your tail light base is the same, and IF you're talking about the light that I asked about just above, then its just replacing the brake light lens and socket/bulb, and it uses the factory base.
So you'll plug that connector on the new light/bulb into #1, and pick up blinker signals from #3 & #4.
Just fyi, where it shows all those connectors plugging in in the picture below that is actually a circuit board in the tail light base, and #5 is the connector for the incoming harness that powers the rest.
On the Limited I don't think anything currently is on #3 & #4 because your turn signals are in the tourpack (the tour pack's lighting connector plugs in under the seat)...
So I'd get me the connectors and proper pins that fit #3 & #4 and plug in the blinker wires for the new light right there, inside the brake light and right beside where the new brake bulb/light plugs in.
Then you just got to figure out which one of the two pins on #3 and which one of the two pins on #4 to connect to those two loose wires on the new light to. On #3 & #4 I think its gonna be the right pins in each is power/signal pins, and the left pins on each is ground the ground pins (I'd verify that with a volt meter), and because the new light is just showing two loose wires, I assume you want the power wire for each blinker, and then the new light is grounding the blinker function thru the new light's circuitry.
I realize you asked about the lights, but if you are budget minded, I would also seriously consider skipping the quick disconnect hardware for the tour pack as well. Obviously you will still need to install connectors for the wiring, but it only takes 4 bolts to remove the tour pack using the stock mount. You can save another few hundred bucks and I don't think the quick disconnect makes it much faster. I had the quick disconnect installed when I bought my UC and swapped back to the stock mount about a year later.
I realize you asked about the lights, but if you are budget minded, I would also seriously consider skipping the quick disconnect hardware for the tour pack as well. Obviously you will still need to install connectors for the wiring, but it only takes 4 bolts to remove the tour pack using the stock mount. You can save another few hundred bucks and I don't think the quick disconnect makes it much faster. I had the quick disconnect installed when I bought my UC and swapped back to the stock mount about a year later.
Pretty much this. All the wiring will unplug from the factory connectors as is, remove 4 bolts and the TP is off. Unless you are planning on swapping it out daily, there are better uses for your money. Like my answer to the turn signal problem. And it was plug and play. Plus look how noticeable the detach hardware is on my RKS. Not so on the RGL without the quick detach.
Pretty much this. All the wiring will unplug from the factory connectors as is, remove 4 bolts and the TP is off. Unless you are planning on swapping it out daily, there are better uses for your money. Like my answer to the turn signal problem. And it was plug and play. Plus look how noticeable the detach hardware is on my RKS. Not so on the RGL without the quick detach.
This is what Im looking to do to my bike. Im about to purchase those lights from H-D. What license plate mount is that? Did you just disconnect the stock rear tail light and that license plate mount bolts right in?
Pretty much this. All the wiring will unplug from the factory connectors as is, remove 4 bolts and the TP is off. Unless you are planning on swapping it out daily, there are better uses for your money. Like my answer to the turn signal problem. And it was plug and play. Plus look how noticeable the detach hardware is on my RKS. Not so on the RGL without the quick detach.
What brand of filler lights are those and how far off to the side can you get before they are no longer directly visible? I like the clean look. But I've seen some of the filler lights that are tucked in so much that you get about 45 degrees off to one side or the other, and you no longer see the light because it's blocked by either the saddlebag or the fender.. Relying on just those as the only tail lights seems dangerous. But yours look like they come out more than the ones I've seen. Still, without the marker lights on the side of the tour pack, I'm guessing there is a lot of angle where you have no visible lights.
And here is my setup. The license plate holder is Kurykan and has built in LED's, eliminating the need for the window in the tail light. It wired up easy enough, but did require some drilling.
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2020 Road Glide Limited TAILIGHT question
