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I have a 2008 Roadking with a Frozen front brake lever. From I have read on this forum it is a stuck valve in the ABS unit. Has anyone ever had any luck freeing up the stuck valve? I've rebuilt car transmissions before and fixed frozen calipers. Is there any way to disassemble these and free up the sticky valve? Sounds like the unit for 2008 models is obsolete but 2009 to 2011 can be used but I would have to purchase need both the Hydaulic and electronic (48343-09 and 40649-08) parts. Both are expensive so maybe buy the electroic half used. Does does this sound OK? I would then use the recall for brakes to have Harley bleed the brakes,
I thought the abs module was a dealer only item? It does sound like the abs module is frozen...crappy design from the moco. Theres been a few guys who have removed the abs system. Let's us know what you find.
Being that I just went through a 2006 RG for a friend a few days again to get him ready for his trip back home to TX, and can see such happening on the older bikes.
Note, Thank god he did not have ABS, since the fluid and all the crystallization in his brake fluid sections, would have take the ABS unit out from the inside of it.
Hence the Dot 5 fluid is both his brake reservoirs was not only brown, but has major crystal depots from the brake fluid not being power flushed every few years to keep the humidity out of it (which was also starting to pit the inside surfaces of the reservoirs as well). Had he had ABS, the unit was would have trash/rusted and pitted on the inside of the ABS valves from that much humidity in the old fluid.
So We should start with the color of the brake fluid in the reservoirs now, since its it old/brown/starting to crysalize, then if ABS has problems, it going to be on the inside of the unit valves surface that your not going to be able to get to. The valve and guides asemblies are press fit into the block, so not easy way to get them out to either clean them up, or replace them. You might luck out pulling the controller to see if you can pull/rotate a vavle upwards to un-stick it (the say direction that the solenoid pulls the valve to activate it, but may end up with a leaking mess from the surface rust that caused it to stick in the first place once freed.
If on the other hand, it if just the top of valve stem that have started to rust up from humidity getting to them against the solenoid cavities, then easy to get to them to clean them up, and silicone lube the valve stems and silicone flush the electromagnet solenoids cavities instead.
Think corroded mess like this, since it a common problem on the Vettes.
I have a 2008 Roadking with a Frozen front brake lever. From I have read on this forum it is a stuck valve in the ABS unit. Has anyone ever had any luck freeing up the stuck valve? I've rebuilt car transmissions before and fixed frozen calipers. Is there any way to disassemble these and free up the sticky valve? Sounds like the unit for 2008 models is obsolete but 2009 to 2011 can be used but I would have to purchase need both the Hydaulic and electronic (48343-09 and 40649-08) parts. Both are expensive so maybe buy the electroic half used. Does does this sound OK? I would then use the recall for brakes to have Harley bleed the brakes,
FWIW... It wasn't widely discussed or publicized, but part of the problem was due to a substandard brake fluid the MoCo put in the OEM bikes in the early years of ABS. But they also upgraded the ABS unit, I believe 2013 is when the part number changed... If I was going to keep the ABS on a bike that needed a repair to the ABS system, I would spend the money to get a new, updated unit...
Seats, saddlebags, and several other accessories I wouldn't hesitate to buy used... but there are many parts I would not be interested in buying used... Even though electronics usually work, or they don't, anything to do with the ABS system would be one of those things I wouldn't want to buy used... unless it was from someone I knew and trusted...
Good luck with your decision, and post up the outcome....
I also heard it was a fluid/abs module vendor issue. MOCO changed vendors and they were changing modules like crazy till the "new' ones came out. I dont think you can get into one to Repair it it.
I would then use the recall for brakes to have Harley bleed the brakes,
If either component is faulty when serviced for the recall, MoCo will not replace it.
Technicians will attempt the bleeding procedure for the recall. If they're unable to perform the procedure because either HCU or electronic side is faulty, the recall attempt concludes. No new parts, no Pass Go and Collect $200.
older thread I know but what specific vehicle are these images from? Is this HD's ABS unit? if so, is this from your 2008? you mention a Corvette so not quite sure. Thanks.
Originally Posted by Dano523
Being that I just went through a 2006 RG for a friend a few days again to get him ready for his trip back home to TX, and can see such happening on the older bikes.
Note, Thank god he did not have ABS, since the fluid and all the crystallization in his brake fluid sections, would have take the ABS unit out from the inside of it.
Hence the Dot 5 fluid is both his brake reservoirs was not only brown, but has major crystal depots from the brake fluid not being power flushed every few years to keep the humidity out of it (which was also starting to pit the inside surfaces of the reservoirs as well). Had he had ABS, the unit was would have trash/rusted and pitted on the inside of the ABS valves from that much humidity in the old fluid.
So We should start with the color of the brake fluid in the reservoirs now, since its it old/brown/starting to crysalize, then if ABS has problems, it going to be on the inside of the unit valves surface that your not going to be able to get to. The valve and guides asemblies are press fit into the block, so not easy way to get them out to either clean them up, or replace them. You might luck out pulling the controller to see if you can pull/rotate a vavle upwards to un-stick it (the say direction that the solenoid pulls the valve to activate it, but may end up with a leaking mess from the surface rust that caused it to stick in the first place once freed.
If on the other hand, it if just the top of valve stem that have started to rust up from humidity getting to them against the solenoid cavities, then easy to get to them to clean them up, and silicone lube the valve stems and silicone flush the electromagnet solenoids cavities instead.
Think corroded mess like this, since it a common problem on the Vettes.
Hence why it is so important to regularly flush the brakes and clutch.
I once bought a 5 year old ‘72 Datsun 240Z from a Chevy Dealer in Rochester, Ny. I bought it “Used As Is”. Even though I gave it a good test drive, and 1 week later the brakes seemed to be pulling randomly. . First thing I did was check the brake fluid, which I hadn’t done when I checked out the car. The fluid was black, and nearly thick as syrup, and had rubber pieces floating in it. It seemed someone had put in fluid of some type that ate up all the rubber seals. I took it to the dealer I bought it from, and the fat cigar smoking service manager, who looked like a Mafia hit man…and yes there was a Mafia war going on at the time there, says “What part of “As Is” don’t ya unnerstand? Get the frock outta here"
So,I proceeded to fix the car myself. The first problem was that this was the early days of Japanese cars using crappy metal that would rust even in high humidity. I had to cut the lines and replace them because all the fittings were rusted solid to the lines. I was able to hone all the cylinders…but it was a PITA.
Moral of the story:
- check fluids when ya buy a used vehicle
- examine used vehicle thoroughly for rust. This car also has a rusted out front uni frame.
- flush brake and clutch fluids regularly.
- move the hell outta Rochester, Ny,
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Dreaded stuck valve in the ABS module
