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I moved the Delphi system around side to side and when I rotate it upside down the bike shuts off and won't start back up until I turn the ignition off then back on. I've never had a security fob though.
If it has the petcock with the vacuum line try disconnecting it and plugging the end.
Never had a bike with a vacuum controlled petcock. Doesn't the vacuum open the fuel flow, and lack of vacuum shut it off, so pulling the vacuum hose would keep the fuel shut off?
I'd also go to the Crank position sensor. this sensor "reads" the notches on the flywheel and sends a signal to the ECM to the coil and then to fire the spark plugs. When they go out it's very sporadic. They'll cause a stumble then just up and die on you. I've seen this on four wheeled vehicles also.
run it at home around the block. when it dies spray some fuel into throttle opening and see if it will run. if so it is fuel related, if not it isn't. eliminate 1 avenue then move on. crank sensor sounds like a place to try. welcome to the forum..
It could be any of the things posted.... from crank sensor, to vacuum petcock, to even debris from peeling gas tank liner....
I suggest you do as Svarnster suggests and actually diagnose the issue by checking/eliminating the various possibilities, rather than throwing parts at it...
the first thing to figure out is if it is a fuel or spark issue....
As far as checking the crank position sensor.. if you have fuel, but no spark... it could be a faulty CPS....
Per my 2003 Electrical Diagnostic Manual, if the bike were to stall or not start due to a faulty CPS, it will throw a DTC 41 code...
Per the manual, the Ignition Module sends the CPS a 1 VAC minimum signal during cranking....
Their troubleshooting protocol involves the use of a break-out box, it is involved.... but basically they say to:
1) Check the resistance between the Ignition module grey connector, pins 5 (R wire) and 6 (BK wire). These are the wires to the CPS from the ignition module. [I suspect you can check right at the CPS connection, but it won't tell you id there is an issue in the wiring between that connector and the Ignition module]
2) If there is more than 1 megohm resistance, then check for an intermittent connection.. pinched or damaged wires and loose CPS fasteners... If no conditions found..
3) Measure VAC at the CPS connector to see if the CPS is receiving 1 VAC minimum during cranking. If yes, there is an intermittent problem. If no, the CPS is bad...
The test for an intermittent CPS problem is too complicated to type here, and looks like you might need to do it with the break out box..
I'm not an electrician, but some of these tests may be able to be duplicated without a break-out box, but it will require access to the various connectors which is more labor than using a break-out box.
As far as trouble shooting an intermittent CPS when it gets hot... I saved this quote from a post on this forum from several years ago. I saved it as a reference on how to check the CPS for intermittent failure due to heat.. I have not had the opportunity to try this yet to personally verify it's a good test, I just saved it for reference, so not sure how accurate the test is... it might be worth a try before spending money on a new CPS...
"Easy to check a crank position sensor. Hook up your ohm meter to CPS leads, should read app 700-850 ohms. Take a hair dryer and aim at the sensor, on high. Should hold reading after 15 seconds or so. If bad it will go to infinity."
I hope some of that info helps, rather than to just confuse the issue further...
I believe in finding the actual issue, rather than just throwing parts at a bike to see what works...
Neighbor had a similar issue last summer. Turned out to be the crank sensor. Acted like a fuel issue as we verified spark and it would run for a period of time and then just die.
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