Check engine light
Check engine light comes on after a short period of being on the throttle, goes out after a while. If running at 70 or above, light comes on and stays on. Seems to be running OK except lacks power on the top end. Light doesn't come on in around town driving. Dealer says he needs to run diagnostics, cant do it for a few days and will take a few hours, mentioned it needing throttle cables and an O2 sensor. Cruise control works fine.
Thoughts, ideas?
- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & the Run/Stop switch to Run.
- Push odometer reset button in & hold.
- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word “diag” will then appear.
- Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.
- Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module refers to EFI models, Ignition Control Module is for Carbureted models)
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal / Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed, otherwise the word “none” will appear if there are no trouble codes. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.
- Record each code and reference the list below.
- If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear. - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.
- Turn Ignition switch to OFF.
"No Rsp" will also appear if the run/off switch is in the off position when doing this procedure.
Also if the code set is a historic code (not a constant light) after 50 start and run cycles of at least 30 seconds each in duration, the light will extinguish itself as long as the error hasn't occurred again.
If it were a current code, the light would remain lit while running.
Got to thinking on this. Had been working on the horn a couple of weeks ago so started looking there. found the sparkplug wire loose on the rear cylinder. Wasn't much tension so crimped it a little with pliers and went for a ride.
Runs great and no more check engine light.
Again Thanks Guys!
Got to thinking on this. Had been working on the horn a couple of weeks ago so started looking there. found the sparkplug wire loose on the rear cylinder. Wasn't much tension so crimped it a little with pliers and went for a ride.
Runs great and no more check engine light.
Again Thanks Guys!
I'd still go through and clear the codes.
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Good catch...
I shudder to think what the dealer would have charged to fix that "problem"......
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