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Old Jun 7, 2021 | 02:41 AM
  #1  
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From: bendigo
Default primary adjuster

If you have a manual adjuster how often do they need adjusting. The bike in question is 103 stg 4 dyno registered 118 hp. I am replacing the compensator and while in there i wondered how much benefit there is too changing to a manual adjuster if any. I have used a long screwdriver to feel if there is any play which there is, so the worry of over tightening the chain with an auto adjuster is maybe a bit mute. Am i just trying to waste$?
There is always other things to spend $ on !
 
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Old Jun 7, 2021 | 06:46 AM
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I have the SE Manual on my 2011 FLHTC. It was noisy as **** at first, but now no problem. IIRC it is a 5000 mi check and adjust. Easy to do. Took my non mechanical self 30 mins. Rotated the primary chain, adjusted and back in business.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2021 | 08:31 AM
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Harley went to the auto primary chain adjuster in 2006/2007... It was the same time they "upgraded" the compensator for the 96" engines... Both the comp and auto tensioner had issues when first introduced.

The auto tensioner would over tighten the primary chain, which could lead to other issues in the primary.. The original was part #39929-06A

In 2010, they changed the auto tensioner on all bikes to part #39929-06B. The upgraded "B" version has performed much better than the "A" version. I ran the "B" version on my Stage II 2012 bagger and then on my 2016 Bagger w/ an S&S 124" engine (135HP/151TQ), without issue... I only removed it on my '16 bagger because I switched to a 32T (smaller) solid front engine sprocket that came with it's own manual tensioner, to account for the extra chain slack...

I believe you will be fine if you have the "B" version auto tensioner. Just remember not to do aggressive downshifts while the engine/primary is not up to temperature. The cold, aggressive downshifts will cause the auto tensioner to adjust to the looser, cold primary chain and it will then be tight at operating temps.

Here is a pic of the "A" version (bottom) and the "B" version (top). The "B" version has a beefier frame for less flex, and fewer, smaller teeth on the shoe for smaller tension adjustments.....


 
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Old Jun 8, 2021 | 01:19 AM
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Thanks for that concise explanation. I will spend money on something else!
 
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Old Jun 8, 2021 | 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by askari1
If you have a manual adjuster how often do they need adjusting......
There is always other things to spend $ on !
Another option is the Hayden tensioner. It uses a coil spring to keep tension hot or cold. You adjust the coil with shims when you first install.

I have had one for a few years. At first, I second guessed because at 1st it is a little noisy. It turns out after it cuts a shallow groove in the plastic shoe the noise goes away. I'm happy with it now as I don't have to second guess if I have the stock manual tensioner set right.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2021 | 06:37 AM
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I just received my Hayden tensioner for my new to me 14 Trike. Can’t wait to have it on. I love it on my 07. Made it sound way better in the primary.
I need to open the primary up anyway to inspect everything in there...
 
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Old Jun 8, 2021 | 07:50 AM
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I have been running the Baker manual tensioner since 2012 with good results/
 
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Old Jun 8, 2021 | 06:22 PM
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I've Hayden units on all three of my Harleys, 2 Dynas and the Road Glide Ultra. Admittedly the early Hayden M6B07 units had their growing pains, springs too long and too strong. Hayden fixed it and provided owners with the right springs. Never have to worry about the chain adjustments since the installs.
 
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Old Jun 8, 2021 | 06:28 PM
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Although I went through several SE compensators on my stage 2 ‘12 TriGlide until I installed a Baker. I never had an issue with the OEM adjuster in 45,000 miles.
 
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Old Jun 9, 2021 | 05:59 AM
  #10  
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I thought the self adjuster was great...until I started having primary bearing leaks...and a walked race...I ended up with a Hayden on my 01 dyna and 13 streetglide...never any more problems...
 
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