Power Vision 2007 FLHTCU
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Joined: Jun 2021
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From: CA
Power Vision 2007 FLHTCU
So, I just found out that my slip-ons are not stock. They are Screaming Eagles. At first was running the enhanced stock map thats on the Dynojet website for my bike. Ran 3 auto tunes sessions.
I just looked at the Dynojet website to see if they had a tune for the Screaming Eagle slipons. I didnt see that, but did notice they had true dual with a few different slipons. I do have a true dual exhaust, I also have the big sucker air cleaner. I am thinking of trying the map they have for the true dual with Vance & Hines slipons.
Anyone here think its not a good idea? Dont want to screw something up.
I just looked at the Dynojet website to see if they had a tune for the Screaming Eagle slipons. I didnt see that, but did notice they had true dual with a few different slipons. I do have a true dual exhaust, I also have the big sucker air cleaner. I am thinking of trying the map they have for the true dual with Vance & Hines slipons.
Anyone here think its not a good idea? Dont want to screw something up.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 4,162
Likes: 9,651
From: Flyover Country
I auto tuned my 07 off of a Fuelmoto map. A couple of runs and it's been solid.
I ran my wife's 09 103 through several auto tune runs and it ran great. After a few K I changed plugs and the rear cylinder was l lean. Not crazy lean but enough that it concerned me with the hiway miles we run. Talking to them they brought up that the algorithm can "become fixated" on some data and might not land the best map (he referenced a bike they found with nearly 90 auto tune runs). To many runs progressively can give you a less that optimal map. They suggested dropping back to one of the early ones and checking it there. It seems to be right now.
Anyway autotune is great, it does a great job but might get off on a tangent apparently.
I ran my wife's 09 103 through several auto tune runs and it ran great. After a few K I changed plugs and the rear cylinder was l lean. Not crazy lean but enough that it concerned me with the hiway miles we run. Talking to them they brought up that the algorithm can "become fixated" on some data and might not land the best map (he referenced a bike they found with nearly 90 auto tune runs). To many runs progressively can give you a less that optimal map. They suggested dropping back to one of the early ones and checking it there. It seems to be right now.
Anyway autotune is great, it does a great job but might get off on a tangent apparently.
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From: CA
I am a product manager for one of the original SEMA members. We and a lot of other manufactures in California spend tons of money fighting all these stupid restrictions.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,077
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From: San Diego, CA
So, I just found out that my slip-ons are not stock. They are Screaming Eagles. At first was running the enhanced stock map thats on the Dynojet website for my bike. Ran 3 auto tunes sessions.
I just looked at the Dynojet website to see if they had a tune for the Screaming Eagle slipons. I didnt see that, but did notice they had true dual with a few different slipons. I do have a true dual exhaust, I also have the big sucker air cleaner. I am thinking of trying the map they have for the true dual with Vance & Hines slipons.
Anyone here think its not a good idea? Dont want to screw something up.
I just looked at the Dynojet website to see if they had a tune for the Screaming Eagle slipons. I didnt see that, but did notice they had true dual with a few different slipons. I do have a true dual exhaust, I also have the big sucker air cleaner. I am thinking of trying the map they have for the true dual with Vance & Hines slipons.
Anyone here think its not a good idea? Dont want to screw something up.
I think the most important part is to start with a base tune that uses the same TYPE of exhaust (head pipe) you have... ie: 2-1, 2-1-2, or true duals...
IMHO..... The differences between the the different styles of head pipes on a tune, will usually be more significant than the difference of flow between different high-flow mufflers on the same head pipe...
Once you get a tune with the same head pipe, run several auto tunes, until the average cell change is 4% or less...
If you have trouble with rideability on one of the tunes, try one of the others that matches closely, as a starting point and do several auto tunes..
One of those tunes should be close enough to get a fair running bike out of the auto tunes...
The disclaimer..... you are auto tuning with the OEM narrow band O2 sensors. They are not accurate at the extremes of the tune map, that's why all dynos and street tuners use wide band O2 sensors to tune a bike (or car)... for a good, canned-map auto tune with OEM O2 sensors, the closer the canned map matches your exact mods, the better it will be..... and obviously, a dyno tune by someone who knows how to tune, would be the best choice...
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Joined: Jun 2021
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From: CA
Here's my 2 cents....
I think the most important part is to start with a base tune that uses the same TYPE of exhaust (head pipe) you have... ie: 2-1, 2-1-2, or true duals...
IMHO..... The differences between the the different styles of head pipes on a tune, will usually be more significant than the difference of flow between different high-flow mufflers on the same head pipe...
Once you get a tune with the same head pipe, run several auto tunes, until the average cell change is 4% or less...
If you have trouble with rideability on one of the tunes, try one of the others that matches closely, as a starting point and do several auto tunes..
One of those tunes should be close enough to get a fair running bike out of the auto tunes...
The disclaimer..... you are auto tuning with the OEM narrow band O2 sensors. They are not accurate at the extremes of the tune map, that's why all dynos and street tuners use wide band O2 sensors to tune a bike (or car)... for a good, canned-map auto tune with OEM O2 sensors, the closer the canned map matches your exact mods, the better it will be..... and obviously, a dyno tune by someone who knows how to tune, would be the best choice...
I think the most important part is to start with a base tune that uses the same TYPE of exhaust (head pipe) you have... ie: 2-1, 2-1-2, or true duals...
IMHO..... The differences between the the different styles of head pipes on a tune, will usually be more significant than the difference of flow between different high-flow mufflers on the same head pipe...
Once you get a tune with the same head pipe, run several auto tunes, until the average cell change is 4% or less...
If you have trouble with rideability on one of the tunes, try one of the others that matches closely, as a starting point and do several auto tunes..
One of those tunes should be close enough to get a fair running bike out of the auto tunes...
The disclaimer..... you are auto tuning with the OEM narrow band O2 sensors. They are not accurate at the extremes of the tune map, that's why all dynos and street tuners use wide band O2 sensors to tune a bike (or car)... for a good, canned-map auto tune with OEM O2 sensors, the closer the canned map matches your exact mods, the better it will be..... and obviously, a dyno tune by someone who knows how to tune, would be the best choice...
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Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 106
Likes: 29
From: SC
Thanks for the input....The guy that had this before me only had it for a minute. He just wanted to flip it. But I have found out there are a lot of aftermarket parts they added. The O2 sensors are pretty large, I heard that the OE versions were smaller. Is there any way to test to see exactly what they are? I also found that the computer was changed to a 2007 Road King computer. With the VIN from that bike still programmed in it, not sure if the original computer died and it was just swapped out.
Cruiser
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 106
Likes: 29
From: SC
Thanks for the input....The guy that had this before me only had it for a minute. He just wanted to flip it. But I have found out there are a lot of aftermarket parts they added. The O2 sensors are pretty large, I heard that the OE versions were smaller. Is there any way to test to see exactly what they are? I also found that the computer was changed to a 2007 Road King computer. With the VIN from that bike still programmed in it, not sure if the original computer died and it was just swapped out.