When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Bike is finally back on the road after a month of adding all sorts of fun stuff.
But to my question, Fish or Shooter if you all are out there. I set the pads on the 360 as per the instructions after bleeding it by doing 10 stops at 20 miles an hour with both brakes then letting the brake cool then again at 40 miles an hour. I noticed during this process that the 360 brake would make a noise that sounds about the same a when you take your thumb get it wet and rub it against plastic (does that make since). It only does this at the very end of the stop almost when the bike is coming to rest.
Anyway after setting the pads I let it sit over night then rode into work this morning and it did it a couple more times. I may try re-bleeding the brake again as the handle felt a little hard when I was coming into work so it may have air in the line, but that still doesn't explain the noise. Do you all have any suggestions? Or does anyone else have any ideas?
Jeff
P.S. Pictures to come of the bike. For now if you are interested in the build process I have uploaded all of the pics to Photo Bucket
I can't answer your question Jeff but after looking at your photobucket pics I'd love it if you did a full length thread complete with pics from beginning to end on that PHAT looking RK of yours. Extensive work on the rear end looks great. That King would smoke the competition in the BOTM race.
More please and good luck with the 360 brake. Just a thought about the brake but maybe repeat the burn in process as it sounds like the mating surfaces are not "roughed up" enough.
Thanks Klassic,
The plan is to get the bike out this weekend and get some good pics of it. All the pics I have of the bike right now are of the build process in a dimly lit garage so they are not real good. I hope to have a thread up as you spoke about with in a few days.
I'll try to refrain from posting anymore about the asthetics of your bike to keep from hijacking or side-stepping your purpose for this thread but Jeffro, that freaking King is gonna look SCHWEEEEEET!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!![sm=jawdrop.gif]
I may try re-bleeding the brake again as the handle felt a little hard when I was coming into work so it may have air in the line---Please understand your system before you play with it--air in the lines will cause a spongy pedal/lever NOT a hard feel. Please note that your "brake feel" will change due to a different friction material butthe pads may not be burnished yet.
I may try re-bleeding the brake again as the handle felt a little hard when I was coming into work so it may have air in the line---Please understand your system before you play with it--air in the lines will cause a spongy pedal/lever NOT a hard feel. Please note that your "brake feel" will change due to a different friction material butthe pads may not be burnished yet.
GJBenda,
Don't you think your 3rd post on a forum should be a little more respectful and should you at least understand the product you are talking about before you attempt to slam me.
Let me give you a little back ground on myself.I was a car mechanic specializing in suspension and brakes for almost 10 years before I became a programmer.I also do all of my own wrenching. While none of that really matters I just wanted you to understand I am not an idiot and I understand the concepts behind what is going on.I also understand what you are trying to say with air in a line should only cause a spongy feeling not a hard lever. I also understand that I do not know everything, for this reason I respectfully ask questions take in the response and do my best to filter out the BS.
But according to the 360Brake website this hard lever "ISSUE"is a know problem with air being trapped in the system that is resolved by an additional bleeding process. If you will use the search function located across the top of your current browser window you will also see that other users of this new braking system have had a similar issue with a hard lever which was resolved by bleed the "AIR" from the brake system.
If summary, if you have some thing helpful that you would like to add to the conversation then please feel free to join in, if you are just going to be an A$$ then butt out.
I apologize for my curtness....I too am a tech, ASE master, but I do not do brakes everyday, mostly driveability. Now I wonder how could trapped air cause a hard lever/pedal? Does the air heat, expand can cause the "hardness"? There must besome sublte difference or featurein this sytem can would cause such a condition. This is quite a curiosity. The only other thing that comes to mind is that the system builds up pressure and the bleeding releases it--like a bad brake hose acting like a check valve or a misadjusted brake-light switch. Something to think about.
I think that has to be what it is. I think the air is getting trapped in the brake piston valve building up pressure almost causing the fluid to boil. This is the only thing that I can think of that would cause a lever to get hard since there is no booster of any type on our brakes. By no means and I a genius when it comes to Harleys but I understand brakes fairly well and that is the only thing I can come up with. They do use iron pads which are a little harder but that should make that much difference and I should have felt a difference from yesterday to today unless they are just settling in.
I have also sent an email to 360 Brake to see what they have to say. Maybe they could shed some light on this. Normally I would just let and let live and not worry about it, but there have been some horror stories lately with this brake system and I want to make sure this thing is right. If not as much as I hate to say it I will have to pull it off and go to a single caliper set up which I really don't want to do. I just don't want to risk a brake failure either especially with all the new and one off parts I just added.
mine also squealed when new....i took the pads and sanded them flat on a machinist table with some 400 grit and that solved that issue..mine were always hard lever'd....i put close to 10k on the brake before it failed...IMO, due to excessive heat ...common sense tells me the larger a surface, the more heat dissipation it will have...its an ingenious design....it did not stand up to daily use for me...i have a chrome leg with one lug on the bench for anyone who wants it....i am now running a PM 6 piston with single rotor and to date love it
Thanks Bryan,
If the noise ( I wouldn't call it squealing) doesn't quit then I will pull the pads and do as you suggested, it does almost sound like a thin glaze or that the mating surface it not seating all the way though. It is nice to know that you had the hard lever though it may just me not being used to this brake and used to the way the dual stock caliper set up felt.
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.