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Shave weight off Street Glide? New ST!?!

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Old Jan 29, 2022 | 07:13 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by rauchman
That RK sounds like A LOT of fun. If you don't mind, how much was the entire Stage IV setup?

As you mention, that extra weight on the touring bikes is noticeable. I love the idea of a touring bike, love the smooth, the frame fits me well, the presence and the added touring capability, but...... the weight. My wife and I rented an Ultra a couple of years ago in MT while visiting family. I love the amenities of the bike and the stock positioning was pretty decent, but didn't find the bike "fun". I found the bike heavy and ponderous. I dropped the bike in a parking lot when I hit the front bike accidentally. There was zero chance of saving it once it started to go. I know it's an Ultra, with a higher center of gravity.... which is another 80'ish lbs on an SG, ...which is 100'ish lbs over my current bike.

For me, the RK, SG/S and RG/S are right at the limit of what I'd find workable weight wise, and I'd guess with time, I'd get used to it. I've read countless times about riders going from a Softail / Dyna and found the Touring bikes easier to handle and they got used to the weight, and another group that found themselves preferring a lighter bike

On the SG/RG ST, I think there is a fun factor on these bikes. While big, with upgraded suspension and dialed in ergos, the 117 is kinda like a Stage II 107 which I don't find the need to run out and jazz up the engine immediately. I can't imagine what your Stage IV feels like. What's your MPG like? Also, I like the styling of the ST. The call of going full retard and buying one of these over the LRS ST is being heard in the backround. But....$30K plus freight, surcharge, etc., it has to be about $35k OTD....hmmmmmm
To tell the truth I have rode it only 3 times.🤦🏽‍♂️😂
When I say I traded, I JUST TRADED and then immediately had to leave for work for 28 days on a ship.😡
Anyway if ya rode it like grandpa you would never know it was a stage 4. She takes off effortlessly just by letting off the clutch without the gas and smooth running at any and all rpm. "BUT" ya better be completely straight if ya plan on gassing it while pulling out onto the highway as she will smoke the tire in a heartbeat! (And yes by meaning straight, she will jump smooth sideways and bring ya back to dirtbike and superbike days of past &#128563
I didn't get to test drive it as there was 2" of snow and ice in Illinois when I picked her up. Therefore no Idea of cost of anything on this bike as it was the Dealers personal ride. He dumped a crap load of money in it and let me have it for 22k with 6400 miles while I got 15k for my 2018 Deluxe with 9k miles.
I know people dog out the lifetime warranty but I do have it at no extra cost all while already at 130hp. Warranty is not that difficult as I have a friend that has been using it since it started and pays a local bike shop (pre-approved) $100 cash every 5k miles but he brings all consumables and watches and helps while everything is done correctly.
It was free so I will try it and won't lose 1 once of sleep if warranty doesn't work out as I would have another cam in there as fast as I could research which one and then torque and horsepower would jump!
Only problem I have with it is bottom end torque. Probably petty and just "me". But I have a 1970FLH and a 1991 Ultraclassic that are both 80" and both will pull front wheel in 1st gear and walk all the way thru 1st and pull up 2nd. No not stock by any means as Dad has had a custom shop since the 60s, they are definitely built right. But point being 128 freaking inches should walk a wheelie effortlessly!! Had an 83flh fully loaded (dresser bags and all) that was stock all but a torque cam and carb and it would smoke anything I owned at the time.
With a quick twist she (yes the new to me roadking) will pop wheel up about a foot every time rolling in 1st but she won't carry it at all! Sure I could abuse it and bring up rpms and use clutch and crap but no, I don't have to do that on my old bikes (not that I don't some times but don't have to to wheelie 1st and yes my old bikes are chain drive even a couple that were born with belts have been converted). But anyway it pulls hard even from the beginning its JUST MISSING THE WHEELIE!🤦🏽‍♂️
HD claims it is built to pull hard from cruising speed AND NO LIE THERE. If your not about riding on 1 wheel, ya probably never know a difference as she will smoke the tire everytime it hit its power in 1st gear and surely in 2nd if I dared to shift quickly but after breaking a couple of belts in 2nd (with 80") HELL NO!
Sorry for the book but I hope ya get the jest of the 128 Stage 4. Rode her 1st time about 50 miles (FREEZING) with lots of spinning back tire and running her out having fun with new power (Did fill her up and that was my sideways lesson leaving gas station). Then rode about 160 miles on a quick trip (rode hard again). Filled up again and 29mpg riding like I stole it. Will be home in 10 more days and hope to find out fuel mileage riding normal.
Ride Safe (because I haven't been "lately")✌

2019, 6k miles, Stage 4 128", Vance & Hines exhaust, HD Agitator Wheels. Hope to have painted HD wrapper front fender when I get home. Ride Safe and God Bless!


 

Last edited by Bayou FLHR-M8-128"; Jan 29, 2022 at 07:17 PM.
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Old Jan 29, 2022 | 09:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Gary Wilson
To tell the truth I have rode it only 3 times.🤦🏽‍♂️😂
When I say I traded, I JUST TRADED and then immediately had to leave for work for 28 days on a ship.😡
Anyway if ya rode it like grandpa you would never know it was a stage 4. She takes off effortlessly just by letting off the clutch without the gas and smooth running at any and all rpm. "BUT" ya better be completely straight if ya plan on gassing it while pulling out onto the highway as she will smoke the tire in a heartbeat! (And yes by meaning straight, she will jump smooth sideways and bring ya back to dirtbike and superbike days of past &#128563
I didn't get to test drive it as there was 2" of snow and ice in Illinois when I picked her up. Therefore no Idea of cost of anything on this bike as it was the Dealers personal ride. He dumped a crap load of money in it and let me have it for 22k with 6400 miles while I got 15k for my 2018 Deluxe with 9k miles.
I know people dog out the lifetime warranty but I do have it at no extra cost all while already at 130hp. Warranty is not that difficult as I have a friend that has been using it since it started and pays a local bike shop (pre-approved) $100 cash every 5k miles but he brings all consumables and watches and helps while everything is done correctly.
It was free so I will try it and won't lose 1 once of sleep if warranty doesn't work out as I would have another cam in there as fast as I could research which one and then torque and horsepower would jump!
Only problem I have with it is bottom end torque. Probably petty and just "me". But I have a 1970FLH and a 1991 Ultraclassic that are both 80" and both will pull front wheel in 1st gear and walk all the way thru 1st and pull up 2nd. No not stock by any means as Dad has had a custom shop since the 60s, they are definitely built right. But point being 128 freaking inches should walk a wheelie effortlessly!! Had an 83flh fully loaded (dresser bags and all) that was stock all but a torque cam and carb and it would smoke anything I owned at the time.
With a quick twist she (yes the new to me roadking) will pop wheel up about a foot every time rolling in 1st but she won't carry it at all! Sure I could abuse it and bring up rpms and use clutch and crap but no, I don't have to do that on my old bikes (not that I don't some times but don't have to to wheelie 1st and yes my old bikes are chain drive even a couple that were born with belts have been converted). But anyway it pulls hard even from the beginning its JUST MISSING THE WHEELIE!🤦🏽‍♂️
HD claims it is built to pull hard from cruising speed AND NO LIE THERE. If your not about riding on 1 wheel, ya probably never know a difference as she will smoke the tire everytime it hit its power in 1st gear and surely in 2nd if I dared to shift quickly but after breaking a couple of belts in 2nd (with 80") HELL NO!
Sorry for the book but I hope ya get the jest of the 128 Stage 4. Rode her 1st time about 50 miles (FREEZING) with lots of spinning back tire and running her out having fun with new power (Did fill her up and that was my sideways lesson leaving gas station). Then rode about 160 miles on a quick trip (rode hard again). Filled up again and 29mpg riding like I stole it. Will be home in 10 more days and hope to find out fuel mileage riding normal.
Ride Safe (because I haven't been "lately")✌

2019, 6k miles, Stage 4 128", Vance & Hines exhaust, HD Agitator Wheels. Hope to have painted HD wrapper front fender when I get home. Ride Safe and God Bless!

Killer looking RK. Classy and sleek, really nice!
 
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Old Jan 29, 2022 | 09:20 PM
  #23  
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I've had a HD lithium battery for over two years no issues. Moved to two bikes as I traded. I definitely would but another one.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2022 | 06:24 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by NODYNA
I've had a HD lithium battery for over two years no issues. Moved to two bikes as I traded. I definitely would but another one.
Good to knowtoI always questioned the HD brand when reading the reviews. I was looking at some non Harley brand Lithium batteries online that weight only 4 lbs. Crazy. Thats a lot less weight. One of those batteries will shave off like 25lbs alone.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2022 | 07:38 AM
  #25  
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Generally the best way to reduce weight is the rider.. Seems a lot of people have had issue with those batteries. More than one dealer
 
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Old Jan 30, 2022 | 07:56 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by kel03
If you changed out, did you ever weigh the difference. I need to know so I can sleep tonight
I weight and compare parts all the time. That is what needs to be done when trying to shave weight. I see no other way of doing it.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2022 | 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by smitty901
Generally the best way to reduce weight is the rider.. Seems a lot of people have had issue with those batteries. More than one dealer

Rider weight is an issue when the bike is going in a straight line. Bike weight makes a difference with handling. Un-sprung weight is important while riding hard on uneven or rough pavement.

As to how to make the bike lighter, that is a big money pit and a never ending quest. Talk to a motorcycle shop that specializes in drag racing motorcycles.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2022 | 08:41 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Zakk13
Good to knowtoI always questioned the HD brand when reading the reviews. I was looking at some non Harley brand Lithium batteries online that weight only 4 lbs. Crazy. Thats a lot less weight. One of those batteries will shave off like 25lbs alone.
I've had the Antigravity lithium battery in my Sporty for 4 years now. Still going strong. At first I couldn't believe how light and small it was.

Not sure how much coin you want to drop on the mods but carbon fiber wheels are only about 6 lbs. I think the rubber weighs more.

As far as moving the bike around in the garage, I have a J&S jack. I just ride in, put it on the jack and turn the bike around or move it to where I want.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2022 | 08:54 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by hrdtail78
I have a 09 street glide. Wheels can be a huge weight loss. I lost 9lbs on front and 12 on rear by going to carbon fiber. I have an aluminum swing arm that dropped 20lbs. Went with a road glide front fairing and I dont run a radio. I also put an inverted front end that was a lot less weight than factory. Battery is lighter as well. 2-1 stainless exhaust. My bike is right over 600lbs..
That bike specs @ 785lbs !
 
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Old Jan 31, 2022 | 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by hrdtail78
I have a 09 street glide. Wheels can be a huge weight loss. I lost 9lbs on front and 12 on rear by going to carbon fiber. one pound of rotational mass is equal to about 5 stationary. I have an aluminum swing arm that dropped 20lbs. Went with a road glide front fairing and I dont run a radio. I also put an inverted front end that was a lot less weight than factory. Battery is lighter as well. 2-1 stainless exhaust. My bike is right over 600lbs. For me it wasn't a light bike for parking lot speeds. It is power to weight ratio. Old saying is 5lbs stationary is like adding a horsepower. Bike accelerates faster, brakes faster, and lighter to throw around in curves. Got to use tires rated for the bike, but high milage touring tires can be a very heavy compared to some performance tires on the market.

I know some baggers in the low 500's. Cutting out back bones and seat pans and replacing with chrome moly. Getting rid of two shocks for a mono shock design. Small tank aluminum fuel cells with carbon tank shells. Carbon fenders, saddle bags, and fairings. Some go airtech which isn't carbon but a very light.

Just curious, what was the goal of all of these changes. Do you actually compete in some type of motorcycle events or were you just looking for the lightest motorcycle you could build? I ride a mountain bike and weight is all everyone talks about. Every component that is sold has a weight in grams. There is a big difference in bicycles versus motorcycles as on a mountain bike, the bike is doing a lot of movement under the rider. If the rider were a few pounds lighter, there would be little notice. However, if the bike were a few pounds lighter, it makes a lot of difference on speed through a course.
 
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