Electrical help needed
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Cruiser
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From: Arnold, Penna
Electrical help needed
I have a 2006 Ultra Classic. I recently changed the handlebars and noticed that the ignition switch was cracked at the base and while removing it, noticed the plug to it grounded and sparked against the handlebar riser. I purchased a new OEM switch from Ebay and replaced it but when using a switch aligner and turning the switch, nothing powered up. I checked the fuses and none were blown and then checked the 40am fuse and it was blown so I replaced it. Again tried turning the switch to ignition with the aligner tool, but still nothing. Any suggestions on where to start looking?
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From: SoCal
Measure for voltage at the battery, if it's good, make sure the 3 pins are FULLY seated into the ignition switch.
The connectors/pins used aren't awesome and they can work loose, happened to my '06 and when I reseated the wires into the plug, it solved the problem.
The connectors/pins used aren't awesome and they can work loose, happened to my '06 and when I reseated the wires into the plug, it solved the problem.
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Cruiser
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From: Arnold, Penna
Thanks. That was going to be the next thing I checked. I did notice that one of the pins on the plug going into the ignition switch seemed to slide back in the plug. I have 13 volts at the battery and also at the Maxi fuse.
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Cruiser
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From: Arnold, Penna
07UltraGuy, I checked to make sure the three wires going into the switch were seated and all are. Still no power when I turn the switch. I also checked to see if there was power coming into the switch and the center wire has power, same as battery. The switch is new, is there a way to test the switch itself?
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Do you have a multi meter to check for continuity? To test the ignition switch unplug the 3 wire harness from the bike.
In the off position there should be no continuity from the center terminal to either of the outside terminals.
In the ignition position there should be continuity between all three terminals.
In the accessory position there should be continuity between the center terminal and one of the outside terminals (the one that the R/GY wire goes into).
In the off position there should be no continuity from the center terminal to either of the outside terminals.
In the ignition position there should be continuity between all three terminals.
In the accessory position there should be continuity between the center terminal and one of the outside terminals (the one that the R/GY wire goes into).
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Cruiser
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From: Arnold, Penna
I did use a multimeter using the Ohms setting. I put one lead on the middle blade and the other on the either of the outside blades and turned the switch to Ignition and Accessory. I got OL in all cases.
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Then the only conclusion, providing you used the meter correctly and had good contact between the switch and meter probes, is that your switch is bad.
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Cruiser
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From: Arnold, Penna
Thanks skydude426. It's the only thing that makes sense to me. I'll check the switch one more time with the Multimeter and if I get the same results, get in touch with the ebay vendor I got it from.