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That is exactly how mine sat too originally. Leaning back onto the pad (which originally felt like a rock between my shoulder blades), just the tips of my fingers would touch the grips. But I did the bars under the tour pack, sliding it forward 2 to 2-1/2", and had some good padding to the Chopped's back pad (2" to the "flap" and closer to 3" to the top, then cut a slight curve in it). and now it works great. If I set up straight, I don't feel it, but I can lean back a little and its there. I know its over kill, and not what a lot would even mess with...
Did the same to mine, I always ride solo, added a backrest to the pack frame for lumbar support. I just installed a Mustang super tour seat with backrest and have not taken any photos with it yet. This is with a Danny Gray Custom. I usually leave the pack off unless I need it. I also cut the U bar at the rear added red lights to finish off the ends, then added a lay down plate holder to the fender for a more clean look.
If you have a small drill press or access to one, it is really easy to make. The only difficult part is counter sinking an area for the 2 holes for the elevator bolt (so the heads are not in the way between the tour pack and the bars, and it sits flush on the bars). Takes finding a good bit for metal (counter sink bit) for drilling 1-1/2" diameter that drills flat (like a paddle bit). Also, when you drill the actual hole for the elevator bolt to go all the way thru the aluminum, drill it tight (small) as you can so the bolt barley fits thru it without screwing the threads up. Because an elevator bolt has "shoulder" on it under the head of the bolt, and once it slides in to those holes, then you'll "seat" it in with a hammer, so bolt doesn't spin when you taking the nut on or off later... cause later the head of those two bolts will be where you can't get to them (the tour pack will be covering them up then). Besides that there's just a few holes to drill, and to get your measurements right on... One other thing, it don't look like it, but know this, the front bolts on the tour pack are spaced slightly narrower than the rear bolts are... just a little.
You can order a couple 12" X 1/2" X 2-1/2" bars of 6061 aluminum here for $12 each. I went with 2-1/2" instead of 2" on a later set I made and really liked them better, but either work fine. https://fastmetals.com/collections/a...bar-6061-t6511
Also, on a King, it has shorter bolts coming from the tour pack than the Chopped does, and on a King those bolts are pressed in thru the metal pan inside the tour pack. I mention this because the back two bolts, if not all 4, from the King tour pack may not stick out thru the aluminum bars and the mount enough to catch enough threads, and you may need to find some 1/4-20 specialty nuts like is shown in that drawing I did... those were a pain in the *** to find... or you might be able to "counter sink" the aluminum bars a 1/4" and grab enough threads that way... but be aware.
Once I got a set of bars all made up and done, I put a random orbit sander on it, rounded all the edges a little, and took the "slick" off all the of the aluminum's surfaces, and painted it black. That way the bars just "disappear" under the tour pack.
I promise it's pretty easy to do... and I tend to over think stuff
Honestly, Im probably just going to grab some rubber spacers to raise it an inch or so for the saddle bag lids to clear more easily. My seat has a backrest, so I dont NEED to move it forward.
I wouldn't raise it any more than I had to, and an inch seems like a lot... plus I'd be concerned about creating "pressure points" just using "spacers" on the bolts. Original design has the bottom of the tour pack sitting flat, on a big plate, so the weight of the tour pack and its content is distributed all along the bottom of the tour pack. This was one reason I made the bars I did, to spread that support out as much as possible (the other was to slide it all forward 2-1/2"). If you use spacer on the bolts, in between the tour pack and the plate, then the weight of the tour pack, and its content, is sitting on, and distributed only on the surface area of those 4 points (spacers)... it may work and be fine, I don't know... but its something to think about.
I think the bars I made raised it all a 1/2", and that was an unintended benefit, meaning my lids weren't hitting on my Chopped tour pack, and I cant remember them hitting on the King, but I am not sure because it was only set up with the King a day or two before I started making the bars. The latches barely would if they were in the "fully unlocked" position (all the way up) as I opened the lids. But I'd just rotate them down a little as I opened the lid... it becomes second nature too after you do it for a little bit.
This was just my experience with it, you may see something else though.
I wouldn't raise it any more than I had to, and an inch seems like a lot... plus I'd be concerned about creating "pressure points" just using "spacers" on the bolts. Original design has the bottom of the tour pack sitting flat, on a big plate, so the weight of the tour pack and its content is distributed all along the bottom of the tour pack. This was one reason I made the bars I did, to spread that support out as much as possible (the other was to slide it all forward 2-1/2"). If you use spacer on the bolts, in between the tour pack and the plate, then the weight of the tour pack, and its content, is sitting on, and distributed only on the surface area of those 4 points (spacers)... it may work and be fine, I don't know... but its something to think about.
I think the bars I made raised it all a 1/2", and that was an unintended benefit, meaning my lids weren't hitting on my Chopped tour pack, and I cant remember them hitting on the King, but I am not sure because it was only set up with the King a day or two before I started making the bars. The latches barely would if they were in the "fully unlocked" position (all the way up) as I opened the lids. But I'd just rotate them down a little as I opened the lid... it becomes second nature too after you do it for a little bit.
This was just my experience with it, you may see something else though.
All valid points. I guess Ill stop being lazy and actually fab up something like what you made.
Is the lid hitting/brushing the tour pack or speaker pod when you open the saddle bags... or is it the latch on the lid that can make contact if you don't move it back as you open it?
If its just the latch, I'd just get used to turning it a little as I opened it
Is the lid hitting/brushing the tour pack or speaker pod when you open the saddle bags... or is it the latch on the lid that can make contact if you don't move it back as you open it?
If its just the latch, I'd just get used to turning it a little as I opened it
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