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2011 FLHTK that just turned 60k is leaking engin oil into the primary, I have read some threads that talk about crank case pressure pushing the engine oil past the crank seal and into the primary.
My question is : Are there any ways to vent the crank case without tearing into the heads to replace the brethers ? I seen a product that vents threw the oil fill cap but don't want to spend the $200 bucks if there is a simpler and cost effect solution . basically want a cheep way to vent the case before I pull the primary and change the seal that may not need changing.
Vent thru the breather with one of the many kits available dk customs always comes to mind . You can alsodrill and tap ur own fittings, get some hose, and a catch can and do it urself forna fraction of the price. Either way is simple. Have you tried running a little less oil?
Not sure what you mean by " breather " But I did bypass the upper head ports heading into the air cleaner and it worked well for a couple of years, After having oil leak threw the stater wire I decided to hook it up back to factory configeration but still have a problem. This is why I suspect the valves at the rockers may be plugged and I am looking for an alternate solution for ventilation.
The engin oil level is 3/4 full, but does decrease when putting on the miles.
Maybe you need to replace the spocket shaft seal. I did it around 55k on my 07. Seems to have taken care of the problem. I wonder about cheap cranks and lack of timken bearings is causing crank runout. My 01 87k, I repalced it just cause I had it apart, and age.
I'd replace the stator too since you got it apart. Plus primary bearing and tranny shift seal. MIgh even consider doing belt with that many miles.
The head breathers are one way open out. So if you tried to check them, they would appear stuck. They aren't. It probably not your problem.
Something has taken out the seal at the crank behind the alternator rotor. Be sure to put it the correct direction just in case someone has installed it wrong.
That spacer the seal runs in is designed to flips 180 so you get a new seal area. Remember, the hardest surface wears. (Grit gets in the soft)
The primary vents into transmission thru clutch pushrod hole. Make sure hose on transmission is open.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Jul 23, 2022 at 12:09 PM.
You can flip the spacer. For my 07 I bought a factory, and my 01 I had to buy after market. Around $25. I saved them in case I need them in the future. I also bought an installer for the seal. But many do without. fter wrecking the first one, I just ordered it.
Sprocket seal, is what people call crank seal behind the stator.
It's likely that you need a new crank seal. Either way the primary has to come apart. Anything else wrong will show up when it gets taken apart. 60k is a good time to check the contents of the primary if you haven't done so already anyways.
Last edited by SirHarley; Jul 23, 2022 at 12:20 PM.
Around 55k, I also rebuilt clutch. I would wait to order clutch bearing until inspect hub. One bike clutch hub and basket were scared up. Basket came with a bearing, so I got stuck with $115 bearing, I ordered the year before.
If you think your case the pressurizing, the quickest way to check is to run the bike for 30 seconds, shut it off, and then immediately unscrew the oil dipstick.
If it's not venting correctly, you'll get air rushing out like you're opening a balloon. If no air comes rushing out, your breathers are working correctly.
If you do this and it's still unclear, take off the air cleaner and run a bolt/screw into the ends of the breather hoses and then repeat the test...
You'll see that it takes no time for the case to pressurize with the breathers blocked... and what it actually sounds like when you open up the dip stick.
What gets me about this is that I had no trouble with the bike , but did a routine 3 hole fluid change earlier this year ( about 2k miles ago ) and then started having oil seep threw the stator wire. Does anybody think that using Mobil 1 synthetic would cause the seal to go bad ?
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