My older son is an engineer and he had a unique perspective. We decided to update our comps at the same time. I looked at the JB Weld specifications and liked the numbers for the high temperature version. I showed him the specs and pointed out that it wouldn't be affected buy the constant presence of oil. He countered, we have no information if the JB Weld will affect the oil. He felt better going with the Harley recommendation. At that time, Harley didn't even sell the glue so it was ordered from a different source and came with the mixer/applicator.

On the other hand, LOTS of people have used the JB Weld and had no problems whatsoever over many years and miles. The choice is yours. If I had to do it again, the JB Weld would suit me fine. Check out the temperature tolerance and strength of the quick set version. Undoubtedly the quick set feature entails some compromise in either or both strength and temperature tolerance. If my memory is accurate, the torque figure for the Torx bolt is 175 pound/feet. My son insisted on a proper torque wrench so we rented one from Oreilly. When I went back into mine a year or two later I did the math to figure out how far out on a breaker bar I needed to place my 200 lbs to apply 175 to the bolt. It has been several years but 10.5 inches sticks in my mind. You will need to do your own calculations. My biggest torque wrench maxes out at 150 pound.feet.

There are videos and picture series in the maintenance section in here and videos in youtube. Especially since you changing the chain tensioner, you won't have to remove the clutch to remove the chain. Removing the tensioner makes enough slack in the chain to remove it. If you still can't get the chain off, the slack will allow you to remove the sprocket piece of the compensator and then disengage it from the chain. It isn't a difficult job if you aren't in a hurry. Watching a video would give you sort of a mental rehearsal for what you will need to do.

I used a short extension for the final tightening of the Torx bolt. Don't be surprised when that much torque makes the compensator move before final torque is reached. Also, I put a bottle jack under the breaker bar head to keep the bit square with the bolt head as I stepped on breaker bar handle. The directions will caution you to make sure none of the bellville springs slip off the intermediate shaft. If one or more does the comp won't go together properly and/or the alignment of the comp sprocket will be off. I saved my old springs and when my new comp got noisy, I used one of the medium springs as a shim to tighten the spring pack. It has been quiet and smooth ever since. Good luck, hope it goes smoothly.

 

If you already have the adhesive, can't you just squirt it out and mix it like you would JB Weld? Just be sure it's stirred thoroughly and you should be fine.
The reason I went with the recommended glue is, that little plastic thing is supposed to direct extra oil to the compensator. If it comes off, you aren't likely to know which would result in the extra oil not getting where it's supposed to be which would be bad.
JB weld is probably fine but after considering everything, I decided to go with the approved adhesive and would do so again.

 

Yeah my JB weld job is still on there. Been no kidding since like 2013.

 

Glueing harleys fix in the primary, just seems the craziest thing in the world to me. I realize people do it and work. If it comes loose, what happens?

My 07 with 70k is still on stock comp. I am not sure what I will do, when time comes.

 

I had to buy the husky set at HOMEDEPOT that had the 70 torx in it and the torque
wrench it was on sale right after Christmas in 2020. I did pay $ 80.00 for that tube of Harley expoxy.

 

I used JB Weld in mine. Had the primary back apart recently and still looked all good. Just clean the mating surfaces well. I used brake cleaner.

 

Um.... I think if that little scoop that is glued onto the primary cover were to come off.... as it spins around inside the primary, being ground up by the chain and gears, you would most certainly know it has come loose....

Hopefully you would would open and inspect the primary before any damage from ineffective oiling would occur.

If anyone is really worried about the scoop being glued to the outer primary cover failing, you could always buy a new outer primary cover with the scoop cast in the cover... no glue to worry about, but the that peace of mind isn't cheap...

 

I would think that if the surfaces are properly cleaned and the epoxy (either the Harley stuff or JB Weld) is mixed properly, the oil deflector will not come loose unless there is a major failure like the chain breaking. Worrying about it coming loose when properly glued on, under normal operation, is a waste of thought and energy.

 

I bought my T70 torx bit at Advanced Auto. They stock them all the time. I think it's the gear wrench brand and has worked fine on many bikes.

 

That SE clutch spring is a pretty hard pull,thought I needed it on my cam change.