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The changing friction zone is suspect. Verify clutch adjustment, and ensure the clutch isnt worn or something loose. Hard to find neutral is typically clutch dragging due to : too heavy fluid, too full fluid, clutch adjustment, worn diagram spring.
If all else fails, dont back off the clutch.adjusting nut as much as usual. Experiment with less back off to optimize finding neutral and not slipping.
I'm with the Tri-man on this. Adjust the clutch so that the friction zone is farther from the handlebar. You can do this without going into the primary. Decreasing the space between the end of the cable and the housing on the handlebar wih cause the friction zone (disengagement point) to move farther away. Finding neutral should be much easier.
I have found if I run one drop more than recommended fluid level my shifting becomes much harder. I have had great results with just under. I also run Formula Plus in primary and tranny. I have both hydraulic and cable bikes and it works on both plus past bikes. Just what works for me.
I just adjusted the clutch rod 3/4 turn out, might be slightly better. I am going to hold off doing anything else now until the new shift linkage gets here in a couple days. once I install that I'll be out of ideas, but at least I'll know I went over everything.
thanks everyone for the ideas and replies. I think I have my issue resolved.
I did some things...
re-adjusted the clutch inside the primary
reset the clutch cable free play
but I think what really resolved it was draining 2 oz of fluid from the primary. I have only taken it for a short 8 mile test ride, but found neutral no problem with the bike running.
what pointed me to this direction (aside from someone above making a comment above about fluid level that started me thinking) is that with the engine running, I could not find neutral to save my soul unless the bike was moving. however, when I shut the engine off it snickered into neutral like butter. this made me believe excess fluid in the primary was causing drag on my clutch discs. right or wrong, it seems to be resolved now. I have noted how much fluid to use next time I change the primary, will continue to monitor but feel pretty good that it's resolved. I never would have thought 2oz would make any difference in a cavity that large.
my old twin cam was easy, just dump a quart in there and ride. this new bike is a pita in this regard. I think I ended up with something like 25oz primary oil,
Last edited by steveh326; Jul 5, 2023 at 10:56 AM.
Glad you got it figured out. I need to do same and drain an Oz or two from my primary as it became hard to find neutral after doing my 1k and well, if mine worked fine before and not after, kinda makes it obvious in my case
I would go in there though and adjust the nut anyway for the clutch and get it to where you prefer the friction zone.
OK, you guys know a LOT more about this than me so forgive me if I say something stupid. But I remember back a few years when someone was showing how to adjust the clutch and they talked about changing the "location" of the start of the friction zone by how much the adjuster Nut was backed off during the last steps of clutch adjustment.
OP mentioned he also didn't like the clutch engaging right off the grip from the handlebar.
Did I get this memory right or is it the adjustment at the Cable that moves it? I know that Motorman Paladino always hated getting his bike back after service at the dealer because they always adjusted the clutch so that the friction zone was too far way from the left hand grip at the handlebar, i.e., it took more travel from the grip before he hit the friction zone.
you're correct. My indy did that to my softail when I took it in for tires. He thought he was doing me a favor haha. No harm no foul, easy enough to undo
Not exactly sure what your 'stopped' situation is but when I am getting ready to leave somewhere I turn the switch to run and reach down with my hand and pull up gently to neutral then start the bike. Since I normally slow to a stop in first gear it is just a slight pull verified with the N light...in other words, the hand seems more sensitive than the foot to find neutral.
Does this happen all the time or does it get worse with heat? I had a similar issue (N was easy with the bike off or when cold). In my case it turned out to be 1 or more mildly warped clutch disks.
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