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Ditto, with the bike being an Evo, may want to post future questions on the bike in that forum.
Hence the way the old cam sensor plate was mounted, is a dead give away that its on an MM fuel injected bike for that lads that live and wrench Evo, and the SP3 cam sensor at its way lower price, had become the standard replacement for the oem melting sensor for years now, even before HD disconnected the oem unit.
Depending on model could be a MC SP3 or MC SP1 that is needed. The only differance from the oem to the SP cam sensor, is the sp sensor does not have the kill feature if you drop the bike.
Follow the line down to about the rear brake lever pressure switch, disconnect the connector, and look at the pins on the sensor side of the connector.
The sp3 will have this connectors with the longest of lead wires that fits more touring bikes
For your glide, and since it has MM injection (can tell since your old sensor was mounted via the fixed round holes) will be sp3 that is needed and can be had for around $60 from amazon or highbrow. https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Moto.../dp/B000GZOSGQ
As for sensor change if bike is carbed, mark the location of the old sensor if bike is carb of it V to the back plate surface before you remove the sensor. If you can see the bolt marks on the sensor if you remove it, re-attach it, mark the V to the back plate and pull it it back off. Hence on carbed bikes, it has to be timed, and without the V mark to install the new sensor back to the old timing, will have to pull the timing over on the other side of the motor, break out a timing light, and play the lets get sprayed with oil getting the new one timed correctly.
With bike having MM injected such as yours, your are not going to use the slotted channels, but the fixed hole channels on the plate to mount it instead. (don't have to play the timing game, making the install a walk in the park.
So with new sensor mounted, it's cable through the nose cone and routed the same as the old connector, the old sensor connector disconnected (go from under the bike to get to the sensor connector, since it the easy then trying to get it from the top, pull the center piece out of the connector, take a quick picture of which color wire pin goes were, re-pin the connector with the new connector pins, put the center piece back in and reconnect the connector back into the ecm side of the connector, and bobs your uncle on the cam sensor swap with the after market unit.
So cable always goes down, in the above the bike is carbed since it using the long slots, and before the old sensor is removed, mark V on it to side case, so new replacemnent sensor can be reinstalled in the same timing.
If bike is fuel injected (MM on a 97 such as your), then the sensor is installed cable down, but bolts to hold it in place go through the fixed round channels instead. Also to note, the carb bike and the MM bike uses different sensor pick up cups. So if changing a MM bike to carb, will need to change the pick up cups to the correct cup.
As for oem cam sensor, it 32448-95B*, and will go for about $225 if you can find one NOS. IT will have the kill part if you drop the bike (ball bearing to contact points), but for the most part, if you do drop the bike, tank is tiled enough that fuel pump no longer picks up the fuel, and bike kills itself from lack of fuel pressure on a injected bike isntead.
As for the A verses the B version, it really about the epoxy used, with the B having a black epoxy, then has a higher melting point than the older A unit.
And from how the old sensor was mounted,
This is a fuel injected 97 MM bike. so SP3 will mount back in the same way, cable aiming downward as well, and using the fixed round holes again.
Thanks for that information I'm kinda new to Harley's that info helps a lot
No worries, and the hardest part about doing the sensor swap, is getting to the connector in the first place when its factory location (just in front of the rear brake pressure switch about center of trans and will be the wires closest to the engine when you run the wires). It tight either way getting to the connector and run the wires, but work from the bottom of frame while looking through the top of frame to get it disconnect, fish the wires through to get them in place the same routing, re-pin the old connector from the bottom, plug it back in, add new zip ties you had to cut to get it out hold the looms back in place, And Bobs your uncle.
Also, leave a little slack on the wires in the nose cone, since when you tighten the bottom clamp under the nose come to hold them in place on the bottom of the case, it will pull on the wires a touch, and still want enough slack in the wires inside the nose cone that if you need to pull the sensor at a later date, have enough extra wire to pull the entire sensor out, without having to pull the bottom wire clamp piece to get the sensor out of the way (to check the cup, or to check for seal leaks)..
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-84/
