I have a 1997 Electra glide,the ignition module melted tried to find a replacement,Harley says they can't get them anymore.i looked it up on the Internet and what it's showing is that what I have doesn't fit my bike, but Harley can't seem to tell me what replaced it or what a upgrade would be any help finding what I need is appropriated

This is what's in it now

 

I have a 97 heritage that I bought brand new. There are many ignition module‘s on the market, including twin tech that I have ion my bike right now.

 

Cam position sensor plate

They have been difficult to find for a while now.

Good luck.

Some Chinaman will manufacture a few gross of these and they will, again, be in stock every where, until they ain’t. Rinse and repeat.

 

You have to rewire the bike but these work really well..

https://www.dynaonline.com/dyna-2000...odels-d2ki-1p/

http://www.daytona-twintec.com/model...-ignition.aspx

You essentially end up removing the ignition module besides the pickup..

 

It reads like you may have a 1997 Electra glide but it is unknown if it is fuel injected.
The fuel; injected bikes had the CAM position sensor as shown part #32448-95a mounted in a fixed position via the two bolt holes on the plate.
When you state "Harley says"....What does that mean to you? somebody at a dealer? something you heard? something you read?
The original factory part has a tilt sensor that would shut motor off if the bike fell on its side.
After market does not.
Have you tried researching standard motor products?
They have a CAM sensor that may work for you.
There seems to be two versions...deals with wiring.
Looks like you cut the sensor wires out...I would suggest you do not join wires inside the cone.
The aftermarket will probably have the timing off and require setting..

 

Good point if it's efi..

 

Depending on model could be a MC SP3 or MC SP1 that is needed. The only differance from the oem to the SP cam sensor, is the sp sensor does not have the kill feature if you drop the bike.

Follow the line down to about the rear brake lever pressure switch, disconnect the connector, and look at the pins on the sensor side of the connector.

The sp3 will have this connectors with the longest of lead wires that fits more touring bikes



While the sp1 will have these connectors,
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/c24AA...DB/s-l1600.png

For your glide, and since it has MM injection (can tell since your old sensor was mounted via the fixed round holes) will be sp3 that is needed and can be had for around $60 from amazon or highbrow.

As for sensor change if bike is carbed, mark the location of the old sensor if bike is carb of it V to the back plate surface before you remove the sensor. If you can see the bolt marks on the sensor if you remove it, re-attach it, mark the V to the back plate and pull it it back off. Hence on carbed bikes, it has to be timed, and without the V mark to install the new sensor back to the old timing, will have to pull the timing over on the other side of the motor, break out a timing light, and play the lets get sprayed with oil getting the new one timed correctly.


With bike having MM injected such as yours, your are not going to use the slotted channels, but the fixed hole channels on the plate to mount it instead. (don't have to play the timing game, making the install a walk in the park.

So with new sensor mounted, it's cable through the nose cone and routed the same as the old connector, the old sensor connector disconnected (go from under the bike to get to the sensor connector, since it the easy then trying to get it from the top, pull the center piece out of the connector, take a quick picture of which color wire pin goes were, re-pin the connector with the new connector pins, put the center piece back in and reconnect the connector back into the ecm side of the connector, and bobs your uncle on the cam sensor swap with the after market unit.



So cable always goes down, in the above the bike is carbed since it using the long slots, and before the old sensor is removed, mark V on it to side case, so new replacemnent sensor can be reinstalled in the same timing.

If bike is fuel injected (MM on a 97 such as your), then the sensor is installed cable down, but bolts to hold it in place go through the fixed round channels instead. Also to note, the carb bike and the MM bike uses different sensor pick up cups. So if changing a MM bike to carb, will need to change the pick up cups to the correct cup.

As for oem cam sensor, it 32448-95B*, and will go for about $225 if you can find one NOS. IT will have the kill part if you drop the bike (ball bearing to contact points), but for the most part, if you do drop the bike, tank is tiled enough that fuel pump no longer picks up the fuel, and bike kills itself from lack of fuel pressure on a injected bike isntead.

As for the A verses the B version, it really about the epoxy used, with the B having a black epoxy, then has a higher melting point than the older A unit.


And from how the old sensor was mounted,

This is a fuel injected 97 MM bike. so SP3 will mount back in the same way, cable aiming downward as well, and using the fixed round holes again.

 

*deleted*

The Evo section here is where to go for help with that bike https://www.hdforums.com/forum/evo-84/

I type slow and Dano beat me to the go button

 

Yes it is efi ,I bought the bike used so I don't know what's been done to it. I did find my spa 3 has the same wires,is a better built module, plastic instead of whatever that jell stuff is. When I said Harley I mean dealers,I try to get as much info on something I'm not familiar with . Talked to 2 different dealers and some friends that have and work on bikes,that how I found out about the mc spa 3

 

To add, if you have to drill the rivets out of the old V2 cover plate to get it off, don't bother with getting new OEM rivets to put it back on.
Note, the OEM rivets are not standard rivets, but are made so the rivet stud does not fall out the back side once the end has been snapped.

Instead, pick up some Stainless steel 10-32x 3/8" button head torque socket bolts from home depot, tap the rivet channels to 10-32 to accept the 3/8"" long bolts in the backer plate, chuck the bolts into a drill to gleam the bolt heads with sand paper, and install the cover plate back in that way with just a touch of blue loctite on the threads. If you have to go back later, snap to pull the bolts and reinstall, verses having to get more rivets isntead.