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I have a 2016 street glide special and replaced the OEM bars with 12 inch ape hangers several years ago. Last year, the bars started moving on me occasionally. I was able to push them back up towards the fairing with the help of a friend, but it didn't last that long. My buddy says it's because the new bars are not "notched" where it sits under the 4 bolts causing them to move occasionally. We tightened the riser bolts several times, but it doesn't last. A few months ago, I decided to have the lower forks replaced. My mechanic said that the bolts were loose, tightened them up and that the bars should not move again. Originally I purchased the Arlen Ness polyurethane riser bushing kit and he was supposed to replace the OEM rubber bushings with this one, but he said it was because the bolts were loose again and it had nothing to do with the rubber bushings. Any suggestions on what to do? Thank you in advance!!
Welcome to apes. The dynamics of the taller bars often have you pulling back on them even when you don't realize it. The leverage is not OEM. If the bolts keep loosening, are you using a blue loctite maybe to help or leaving them dry? The longer it persists the worse it will probably get. You may have to replace the bottom clamp if loctite does not work. I would NOT use red, I'd stay with blue
so the bolts are not loosening at all. Harley and myself both think that it's the actual clamp that needs to be replaced. They said when you put aftermarket bars like that, the OEM clamp doesn't always support the leverage. They suggested this clamp and it should fix the issue.
Originally Posted by Gunnysgt
Welcome to apes. The dynamics of the taller bars often have you pulling back on them even when you don't realize it. The leverage is not OEM. If the bolts keep loosening, are you using a blue loctite maybe to help or leaving them dry? The longer it persists the worse it will probably get. You may have to replace the bottom clamp if loctite does not work. I would NOT use red, I'd stay with blue
Any handlebar is held in place in the riser by clamping force. So, enough leverage and force on the hand grips, will make them rotate. The taller the bars, the better the leverage and the more likely they will rotate.
Some bars are perfectly smooth under the riser. This gives much less rotational resistance than a knurled bar does.
The risers can stretch and wear, creating a reduced grip on the bars. Often a fix for this is some shim stock in between the handlebars and the riser. A soda or beer can provides good shim stock for this job.
You can dimple the handlebars yourself where the riser clamps it. Use a center punch and a hammer, creating lots of dimples. Yes, that breaks the chrome and promotes rusting. But it can help hold the bars securely.
If indeed the bolts keep coming lose, loctite will help hold them. But mark the bolts and watch. They may not be rotating, the clamp cover may be stretching. If the bars again come loose, but the bolts haven't rotated, stretching is the most likely cause.
GP097 - I would have used the set screw style clamps, but I have a batwing and you have to pull back the plastic to get at those set screws.
I just changed bars for the 2nd time and did this:
**I had some slippage so I rasp filed the stock clamps. Then shaved off a bit of material off the top clamp. Then for added measure, I popped in some of these sheet rock screw repair material on inside top and bottom of clamp. The bars don't move.**
I also woulda installed the nylon riser bushings. I still would if I were you.
Some good suggestions here. Sounds like you may have some stretching going on. I have nothing to add but a story.
Buddy of mine had 18 inch apes. A group was all lined up at the light. Light turns green and we all gun it. His apes went from 90 degrees to 45, but he didn't even blink and kept the hammer down. Couldn't stop laughing. I think he just tightened the bolts and all was good after that...
ill add on, i have the yaffe clamp on my bike and it works perfect. you could drill and tap the factory clamp too but the yaffe clamp is seriously beefed up over the factory one.
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