Compensator Inspection
2011 Electra Glide Ultra - 60,850 miles.
I have to replace the clutch discs and while I'm in there, how do I check the compensator for wear, or if it needs replacement? I'm not one to replace a perfectly good part, as I am retired and budget minded.
Thanks everyone. Go for a ride today!
Barron
Hello everyone,
2011 Electra Glide Ultra - 60,850 miles.
I have to replace the clutch discs and while I'm in there, how do I check the compensator for wear, or if it needs replacement? I'm not one to replace a perfectly good part, as I am retired and budget minded.
Thanks everyone. Go for a ride today!
Barron
If you did the same, inspect the comp closely for wear. There is a part with ramps and the gear sprocket with spokes that the ramps ride on. Check that area for deep excessive wear. Look at the splines to make sure they have not been damaged at the ends.
The other part that wears are the springs. They will let you know if they are worn by the way the bike starts. If it was clanging, or banging at starts and stops, especially hot starts and stops, those springs are getting worn. If it started to rattle at idle as it gets mileage, that is another sign that the spring pack is getting worn.
If your comp is the OEM and not a replacement, and the sprocket, ramps, or splines show signs of damage or excessive wear, they are no longer made. You will need to upgrade to the newest version of that comp, which is also the best version. The replacement is called the "Screamin' Eagle Big Twin Comp". For your year, you need part #42200064A @ $339.95.
If your comp looks to have acceptable wear, but the spring pack is weak/worn, they do make a replacement spring pack to fit your comp. It is #83936-09A @ $105.05.
I know the budget is tight, but if you see anything that doesn't look good, at 60K miles, I would install the new comp while you are in there...
Good luck with your inspection and keep us posted...
Last edited by hattitude; Oct 19, 2024 at 08:28 AM.
Exactly what I needed.
Thanks for all the help that you provide on this forum.
Barron Cooley, hence, the bcool
https://www.getlowered.com/evolution...IaAipVEALw_wcB
I just yesterday confirmed the issue and ordered discs but haven't taken the primary cover off yet.
I have ridden for 58 years and done all my maintenance including my son's 7-year motocross adventures, so I just want to keep the EG in top shape.
Sorry to ramble, but I would believe the compensator is original, so thanks for the help.
Thanks for the reply Stopit. I bought the bike used earlier this year, so I don't really know if it is original. I've put about 11,000 miles on it and have done all the required maintenance on schedule and it seems to be well maintained and trouble free. The reason I am replacing the clutch discs is, if I accelerate to full throttle in sixth gear over 70 mph I can detect the rpm rise about 400 above what it should be and when I let off the rpm catches up.
I just yesterday confirmed the issue and ordered discs but haven't taken the primary cover off yet.
I have ridden for 58 years and done all my maintenance including my son's 7-year motocross adventures, so I just want to keep the EG in top shape.
Sorry to ramble, but I would believe the compensator is original, so thanks for the help.
The '07-'11 comps were poorly designed. They had many issues and replacements. The '11-'14 comps were better than their predecessors, but still had issues from time to time.
They introduced the newest, best Twin Cam comp with the 2014 Rushmore bikes.
Since you are in the middle group of Twin Cam comps, inspect it as I suggested.
But if your bike had comp issues in the past before you bought it, and the comp was changed, it could be the newest, best version I gave you the part number for in my first post.
That newest, best comp has some telltale signs that separate it's appearance from the other older, lessor comps.
When you open the primary, look at the comp bolt, and the outer primary cover.
The comp bolt will be a hex head (older comps) or a T-70 Torx fastener. If it has the T-70 torx, it is already the newest, best comp for that model.
Additionally, inside the primary cover, on the front portion that is over the comp, there will be a small "scoop" that directs oil to the comp bolt. It will either be a plastic scoop that was epoxied in place when the comp was installed, or they could have purchased a newer primary cover that has the scoop built-in to the cover.
Those above are signs you have the newest, best comp. If you find you have the newest, best comp, I wouldn't consider changing it unless you see some obvious problem with wear and or damage.
The only issue with the newest, best comp is that it will sometimes rattle at idle if the spring pack becomes worn. There is a procedure to measure the spring pack pre-load and add a shim, rather than a new comp or spring pack. The shim will extend the life of the comp. This issue has popped up, but is not prevalent. If you have the new comp and develop this issue, post up here and many will be able to post the inspection and shim info.
To help you identify what comp you have here are a few pics of what your OEM comp and primary cover will look like, and then how the newer, best comp would look like if your bike has already received that upgrade;
OEM Comp with hex head bolt
OEM primary without oil scoop
Newest comp with T-70 Torx bolt
OEM primary with plastic scoop added
New primary cover with built-in oil scoop
Last edited by hattitude; Oct 19, 2024 at 07:31 PM.
It's not going to break unless you adbuse it terrible. Like wide open , drop the clutch stuff.
Noise usually is the issue that drives some nuts.
All that extra oil deflection is needed for cruse control long trips in high gear. The parts after a while of this did get lubrication
The first version local was OK with all the oil just spinning in an outer circle for brief periods. Slow and stops dumped oil on them.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Oct 19, 2024 at 07:44 PM.
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My type 1 SE comp had to be disassembled to see the important wear. The spoke ramps on the sprocket part and the cam were in excellent shape. There is a part they call the crank shaft extension which is splined onto the crank shaft with internal splines and the compensator drive cam is splined onto the outside. It has been awhile, but I believe the internal splines that mated to the crank shaft had worn about half way through. I guess eventually those splines would have worn through and the drive cam would have rotated on the crank shaft and there would have been no drive at that point.
All of the versions of the compensator before the current version had no way to get oil into the center hub of the sprocket piece except for what ever would seep in. I have forgotten the correct term, but the metal to metal wear on the inner side of the hub would produce a red powder and the hub tolerance deteriorated so the parts could wobble slightly. The latest version has six small passages extending from the mounting bolt head radiating outward to the hub center area. Centrifugal force carries oil dripped on the bolt head by the cup on the primary cover to the hub. It seems to be a good design.
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If you did the same, inspect the comp closely for wear. There is a part with ramps and the gear sprocket with spokes that the ramps ride on. Check that area for deep excessive wear. Look at the splines to make sure they have not been damaged at the ends.
The other part that wears are the springs. They will let you know if they are worn by the way the bike starts. If it was clanging, or banging at starts and stops, especially hot starts and stops, those springs are getting worn. If it started to rattle at idle as it gets mileage, that is another sign that the spring pack is getting worn.
If your comp is the OEM and not a replacement, and the sprocket, ramps, or splines show signs of damage or excessive wear, they are no longer made. You will need to upgrade to the newest version of that comp, which is also the best version. The replacement is called the "Screamin' Eagle Big Twin Comp". For your year, you need part #42200064A @ $339.95.
If your comp looks to have acceptable wear, but the spring pack is weak/worn, they do make a replacement spring pack to fit your comp. It is #83936-09A @ $105.05.
I know the budget is tight, but if you see anything that doesn't look good, at 60K miles, I would install the new comp while you are in there...
Good luck with your inspection and keep us posted...
sponse.You do the forum proud!












