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Getting ready to replace the brake pads on my 2005 FLHTI. First time for me and had several questions. In the service manual there is no mention of a need to clean the caliper (they do discuss it though in rebuilding the caliper). Only replacing pads, so what it the opinion on cleaning after the old pads have been removed and the piston retracted? I think I only saw one video online out of many where this was done.
Also, there in no mention in the service manual regarding using any brake pad grease. Seems like it might do more harm than good. Though a video of the Harley pads shows it being part of the kit.
Thanks.
If grease comes with the kit, it might mean the carrier shafts (for a better word) need lubing. If say the calipers are bolted to the forks, run the grease in a circle matching the caliper piston diameters at the back of the pads.
I use cotton string and wrap it around the exposed piston before pushing the pistons back into the calipers. The dragging of both ends of the string around the piston to remove dust off so it enters cleanly into the quad ring.
After the clean, home the pistons into the calipers. Make sure you remove brake fluid out of the master's reservoir if you topped off fluid during the wearing down of the pads.
No need to sand/tamper with the disc surface. No greasy pad faces or the squeak enters the picture. First squeeze the brakes, spin the wheel upon release. Do pads retract and not drag on the discs?
Fluid change is every 2yrs on average. Might be a good time to bleed brakes and refresh fluid. If say pads do drag, now is the time to clean the calipers.
Theory goes: A quad ring has memory, It is pushed forward and the quad moves [ / ] in this direction, then upon release it retracts back (the piston) to the memory or square [ | ]. If fluid is not changed a heat buildup happens under the quad ring and no longer can retract the piston, thus remains in place and drags the pad on the disc.
So if pads retract, no need to rebuild or clean the quad ring grooves. Just change out the fluid by bleeding.
Say the new pads squeak. Just pull pads, scrape the material on a course cement sidewalk, and reinstall.
Since it's that old, it's questionable what the master and caliper are in.
Pretty sure, your's is a fixed caliper with 4 pistons.
Most Metric Cruisers say a rebuild is necessary at the 3rd pad set.
The pistons are booted, so you can't really clean them.
I shoe shine them just to get a better view of condition.
Then I push them back after sucking out some of the DOT 5.
I then carefully lever master and make sure all pistons come out the same. (Dont go to far.)
If anything sticks, caliper needs rebuilt.
If you rebuild, be sure to use the special internal piston grease. The back of the pads don't need the pad grease on a 4 piston setup. Do not confuse the piston grease for DOT 5 systems and the stuff you put on the back of the pad.
Now rebuild or not would be the time to vacuum out the DOT 5 from the caliper. Do not pump it out with a master. Bottoming it if there is any corrosion will destroy it.
After all is good. and probably should be done to determine master condition before you start is hold a firm braking pressure on both master. Lever or pedal should not go down any for 1 full minute.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Mar 24, 2025 at 05:17 PM.
Thanks, I should have added that they have been done before at least once, maybe 2x by my Indy. I know the fluid needs changing, so that's on the list for afterwards.
Before you press the pistons into the caliper, clean the pistons, soapy water is fine, you can get the hard to reach side of the piston with a shoelace.
Use a syringe to suck brake fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir before you push the pistons in.
Clean and lube the caliper, particularly the pistons, before you shove the pistons back into their bore. You can push the pistons out for better cleaning by removing the caliper from the bike, pulling the pads, and then actuating the master cylinder. Just don't push the piston completely out.
I don't know what it is about Harley's and their calipers, but they seem to need more cleaning than any other brake caliper I've come across. It's almost a spring time thing to do to them. The difference in how the brakes work afterwards is quite significant.
Clean and lube the caliper, particularly the pistons, before you shove the pistons back into their bore. You can push the pistons out for better cleaning by removing the caliper from the bike, pulling the pads, and then actuating the master cylinder. Just don't push the piston completely out.
I don't know what it is about Harley's and their calipers, but they seem to need more cleaning than any other brake caliper I've come across. It's almost a spring time thing to do to them. The difference in how the brakes work afterwards is quite significant.
Would highly agree. Any time the caliper is off mine for any reason I remove the screens and pads and clean it all with hot soapy water and an old toothbrush. Then slowly push the pistons back in re-install the pads and screens. Brakes stay in tip top shape this way.
Would highly agree. Any time the caliper is off mine for any reason I remove the screens and pads and clean it all with hot soapy water and an old toothbrush. Then slowly push the pistons back in re-install the pads and screens. Brakes stay in tip top shape this way.
What part are you referring to as the screens?
Do you actually pull out the boot from the groove in the piston so you see the actual piston OD?
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... they have screens
